July 13, 2014

Protecting an Electric Fencer Charger / Energizer from Lightning


With all energizer installations, install adequate lightning protection
before constructing the fence.
1. Use a good surge protector on the utility power side of the energizer to
protect it against power fluctuations.Most energizers are damaged
from the power side, not the fence side.
2. Install a lightning choke in the lead-out cable. You can purchase these
or build them (Drawings 2 and 3).
3. Install a lightning arrestor in the lead-out cable that is connected to
the powered fence. Then connect the arrestor to the lightning grounding
system.
4. Install the lightning protection grounding system at least 65 feet from
the energizer grounding system. The lightning protection grounding
system needs to be a more efficient system than the grounding system
for the energizer. Therefore, use at least one more ground rod in the
lightning protection grounding system than is used in the energizer
grounding system. Select sites for lightning protection grounding
systems with care so that a lightning strike does not go to ground in
the middle of a herd of cattle or where people are congregated.
5. It also helps to install ground rods and arrestors at permanent wet
spots along lengthy fences because wet soil provides an excellent
ground.
6. With multi-wire fences, be sure to connect all of the wires to the
lightning arrestors. The top wire is the first line of defense against
lightning damage.

July 13, 2014

Selecting an Electric Fence Charger - Energizer - Controller - Fencer

The energizer is the heart of any electric-fence
system, so select it carefully. A good unit will provide
years of service if it is properly installed and
maintained. Price should not be the determining
factor.Many operators have started with farmstore
specials that ended up crashing.
The cost to purchase two or three
cheap models is as much or more
than the cost of purchasing
a good one
initially.
Purchase a lowimpedance
energizer
with a minimum 5,000-volt output. It should produce
35-65 pulses per minute with each pulse lasting
not more than 0.0003 seconds. Each pulse also
should have an intensity of less than 300 mAmps.
Seek advice about energizers from experienced
graziers, from sales people and from NRCS personnel.
NRCS employees cannot recommend specific
brands, but they can offer general advice. One
of the best methods is to look at several operations
similar to yours, and find out what those graziers
are using and if they are happy with their units.
Consider the type of livestock to be controlled.
For example, containing sheep, goats or horses may
require special considerations for
charger size and fence construction
to ensure that the animals receive
adequate shocks when they contact
electric fences.
Purchase a larger unit (energizer)
than you think you need
because graziers usually expand
their systems as they realize the benefits of modern
electric fencing. Also increase the size of the
energizer if you anticipate a high weed load near
the fence.


All energizers should come with manuals that
explain installation and operation. Study the manual
carefully. 

July 12, 2014

How to Install Temporary Electric Fence for Cattle

  • Temporary electric fences are great to use when you want to graze cattle in an area that isn't fenced off by some sort of permanent fence, like steel panels or by a board fence. An electric fence is also an excellent tool to use for rotational grazing within a much larger pasture, creating paddocks that allow a herd of cattle to graze a certain amount of pasture space within a defined period of time.

Steps

  • Mark out the area of fencing you will need in the field and/or on a map of your place. Base your calculations and estimates on the topography and area of land you wish to have your cattle grazing on.
  • If you are wishing to install a temporary electric fence in a way where you can practice rotational grazing in a pasture, you will need to put posts in areas where you can both stabilize the fence and provide a point of fence-movement. You can also choose to have one or two fencelines as a more permanent electric fence and one or two corner posts as your baseline for the rest of the more temporary fence.
  • You will need to calculate the amount of wire needed, depending on whether you want to have it as a single-strand or a double or even triple-strand electric fence. Also calculate for the number of posts you will need, remembering that electric posts should be spaced 10 to 12 feet apart.
  • Buy your supplies from a store like valley farm supply who sells electric fence supplies.
  • Choosing the type and power of your electric fence charger is important. Don't get one that is too weak (like those used for horses), or one that doesn't carry the charge a far enough distance. For cattle, the best charger is one that carries the charge for over 18 to 25 miles. It will go up to 60,000 Volts, which is hot enough for any bovine to notice! You can choose to buy a fencer that is battery charged (you will have to replace the car or truck battery every few months or so), or a powerful solar powered fencer. Gallagher is a good electric fencing company that often has good quality materials for your electric fence; spending your money on a good electric fencer will often save on the labour of repairing broken wire!
  • Clear the area of brush, grass, deadfall and trees. This will minimize the risk of shorting out the fence, thus significantly reducing the charge.
  • Install fence posts. You will need to install the more permanent posts first (i.e., treated wood posts) before you decide to put in the step-in temporary posts.
    • Make a corner brace (if necessary, as you may be attaching your electric fence to an existing fence line) by pounding in three posts in a right-angle form: one post with two posts 90 degrees adjacent to that post, pointing in the desired direction that the fence will be going. The posts should be 6 feet apart, or as wide a part as the top post (acting as a brace) will be.
    • Mark the area on the post that needs to be trimmed before adding the brace. With the chain saw, cut a grove into the top of each post, going down then out, making sure each part that is cut out in each faces each other.
    • Put in the top brace by pounding in the top brace with a mallet, working each end until it is down snug in the grooves. Repeat for the other post adjacent to the one just completed
    • With high-tensile or telephone wire, make 5 or 6 diagonal loops from the top of the outside post to the bottom of the main corner post. Take a stout stick (one that is around 3 feet long) and twist the wire until you can't twist anymore (not until the wires break),locking the stick against the side of the post that keeps it from loosening the wire.
    • Pound in the permanent posts spaced 100 feet apart, put in at almost exactly 18 inches deep. It's best to make a mark on the base of each post to get a more uniform set of posts being installed.
      • If you wish to make the fence so that it runs in a straight line, take a roll of baling twine, tie the twine to one corner post and run the twine from that corner all the way down to the other corner that is on the same side.
    • You could ignore the other steps above and get right to putting in the temporary posts. These posts don't require a post pounder, since they have a part at the bottom of the posts that allow you to put your foot on it, and stand on it, using your weight to put in the posts. Make sure they are relatively straight. Space the posts approximately 10 to 12 feet apart.
  • Install the wire. Depending on how many strands you wish to have for your fence, it is usually best to start from the top down. The top wire should be at nose-level with your cows (which is around 32 to 36 inches off the ground). Often the step-in posts that you bought are made so that the wire does run nose-level to a cow, making it less of a hassle to install it. Using an insulator, insert a nail through the part of the insulator that allows the passage of a nail, and pound that to the wood post. If you have installed wood posts, repeat for every post, remembering the number of wires you are planning to install.
    • If you are only using a single-wire fence, then the insulators only need to be installed exactly level with those step in posts, or around 32 to 36 inches off the ground. All three wires (if it's a three-wire fence) should be spaced around 12 inches from each other. A two-wire fence should have both wires spaced around 18 inches apart.
  • Wrap the wire in the hooks the first insulator at least 10 times before stringing the rest along each insulator and hooking them in to each temporary post.Pull the wire so that it is not too taut, but not loose either. Wrap the wire at the terminal insulator on the other side of the line until either enough wire has been wrapped in it, or enough so that you can move down to the bottom insulator and continue with your bottom wires. To attach another strand of electric fence, use a reef (or thief) knot to secure both strands together.
    • Fiberglass posts have the kind of hooks where the wire simply snaps in.
    • Pig-tail posts, however, require a different way of putting in the wire. Pull the wire down so that it is just below the loop, then insert it into the loop. Then position the wire so that it goes over the hook portion of the loop. Repeat for all other pig-tail posts.
    • A gate is useful, especially if you have large machinery to put through to mow or hay a paddock. Allow 20 feet of length between the corner post to the next post. Install eye-screws into the post at their predetermined height mentioned above. Attach insulated handles to the electric wire, using a double or triple knot to do so, and tying the wire so that it doesn't stick out when a person grabs the handles. The wire should also be tied up enough so that the wire stretches taut (not so that it reaches breaking point though), enough that you can use your strength to hook the handle to the eye-screws.
  • Install the electric fencer and ground rod. The round rod should be pounded in so that 99% of it is in the ground, with only a couple inches poking up, enough to put the ground rod clamp on. The ground rod should be placed no more than 15 feet from the electric charger, with high tensile or telephone wire running from the ground rod to the charger. The ground rod or lead-out wire should not be touching any electric wires.
  • Connect the lead-out wire and electric wires to the fence charger.
    • If the charger requires a car battery, then attach the charger to the battery according to the manufacturer's instructions.
    • If you are using a solar powered fence charger, it may be best to locate the charger in an area of partial shade. This is so that you don't cook the charger too quickly in full sunlight, but it still gets enough of the sun's energy and light to maintain a powerful charge on the fence.
  • Turn on the fencer, and test the voltage of the wire. Test at the following locations: near the fencer, mid-way down the fence line, and at the furthest part of the fence. If the power at each point is the same, then it is working properly. If not, you may have to find the source of the problem, especially if it's shorting out somewhere. Sometimes if a single strand of electric wire is touching something metal like the wire on the barbed wire fence, or even a tree twig, these need to be fixed and/or moved so that it doesn't interfere with the electric current.
  • Gather up your equipment and spare wire, posts, etc.
  • Let the animals out and watch them for a bit, especially if they don't know what an electric fence is. Keep an eye on the animals for an hour or two to see how they react to the fence. When you see one or more animals touch the fence with their noses and jump back with a sudden bawl or snort, and don't see any animals that are testing the fence nor have attempted to get through because of the sudden shock they got from the wire, then you know the fence is doing its job.
  • It's best to check on the wire once every couple days, or however many times you need to switch the animals from one paddock to another.

July 12, 2014

Tips to remember when building electric fence

 

  • Wear thick gloves when handling electric wire. Cow-hide gloves work better than pig-hide gloves do, as you get less of a shock through them when handling electric wire.
  • There's no preference as to whether tape or wire works best. Tape tends to be more noticeable by the animals and tends to send more of a charge than wire, though wire carries just as much of a shock as tape does.
  • The step-in posts are great because they can be pulled up and relocated in response to your herd's grazing pressures, or just simply to re-size a paddock.
  • Ground rods are necessary, but sometimes conditions can be so dry that the ground rod doesn't reach far enough to moister ground. Try slowly pouring a pail of water over the ground rod to help temporarily increase the charge during drought periods
    • You may have to invest in a longer ground-rod, especially if you live in an area where drought is not all that uncommon. They can come in longer lengths than 6 or 8 feet, though you may have to ask around to find any.
  • Every time you have to splice a broken wire, it is wise to turn off the charger
  • Also wear good work boots, not sandals or sneakers or even rubber boots, in order to get less of a charge running through you. Good boots will act as an insulator, reducing the electricity that runs from your hand down to the ground.
  • If you are having problems with your animals not noticing the fence, or if you are having issues with wildlife ruining your fence, then hang pie-plates or strips of white cloth or plastic bags from the wire in between each post. These are much more noticeable than a simple wire is, and will work in deterring wildlife from wrecking your electric fence.
  • Use of knots is very helpful in proper installment of this kind of fence.

July 12, 2014

Beef: An Alternative Approach to Grass-Fed Beef Production in the Northeast

By Daniel Hudson and Joe Emenheiser


Most grass-fed beef producers in the northeastern U.S. are also in the cow-calf business. Why is it that we hear so much about the increasing demand for grass-fed and local beef, yet so many of these producers struggle mightily with a lack of profitability? Basically, it seems to boil down to two facts:

1. Winter is long up here.

2. Brood cows eat a lot every day, particularly in the winter. Most beef producers in the Northeast must produce and/or purchase enough hay to feed the animals for 200 days per year or more.

Here are other reasons producers are frustrated with this "typical" system:

  • Truly finishing an animal without grain takes a long time. It's not uncommon for animals to be well over 24 months of age before the desired weight and degree of marbling is reached.
  • Land is scarce, and much of it must be devoted to producing hay to feed brood cows through long winters.
  • Managing multiple groups of animals requires more time and facilities.

So why do we do this to ourselves? No doubt there are many reasons. Most producers clearly enjoy the feeling of accomplishment that comes along with completing the cycle from calving to marketing. Others are really into genetics - breeding just the right type of animal. Some people simply enjoy the way of life, and they have land and the other resources necessary to raise cattle, so they do. Having cows and calves on the farm feels good; it meshes nicely with our psyche.

There's nothing inherently wrong with any of the above reasons for having cattle. The problem that slowly but surely overtakes many beef producers in Northern Tier states is financial loss. The brood cow eats nearly 30 pounds of hay per day, and depending on the type of hay feeder, she can easily waste an additional 20 percent. Between consumption and waste, a 1,200-pound cow will often use more than 3.6 tons of hay over the course of a 200-day hay-feeding season.

Considering all the expenses in the enterprise budget, it costs about $1,470 to produce an 800-pound feeder calf, which equates to about $1.80 per pound on a live weight basis. While an individual may argue with particular lines included in the budget, we believe that these costs are an accurate reflection of what a typical grass-fed beef producer experiences.

There's nothing wrong with raising a calf at that cost, as long as you make up for it when you sell it. The problem is that many farmers don't. Every farmer should have some idea of the net return they need to get per animal in order to make the operation worth their while. They should also be tracking their progress toward that end.

Capitalizing on our strengths

We grow beautiful grass and legume forages in Vermont and much of New England, pastures on which feeder-sized animals will finish more easily than many places in the U.S. Achieving proper finish on a grass-fed animal is a high-value activity that we can do well in the Northeast. Managing a cow-calf operation certainly has value, but doing it in a cost-efficient manner requires resources that we do not have, namely a very long grazing season. The value that pastures in the Northeast have for cow-calf production is more than offset by the staggering expense of keeping the brood cow through the long winters.

Consider the following illustration: For an animal born on the farm, if everything goes well, the total cost of producing a finished 1,200-pound grass-fed animal is about $2,100, not including labor and management charges. When selling whole animals, halves and quarters, producers usually sell on a hot carcass weight (HCW) basis. If the HCW is average, it will be about 60 percent of the live weight: 1,200 (pounds) x 0.60 = 720 pounds.

Given these assumptions, producers need to charge over $3 per pound HCW (not including slaughter and wrapping charges) just to recover their investment and pay themselves about $100 per animal. While some farmers are charging much more than $3 per pound HCW, many farmers are not. So what? The purpose here is not simply to point out that making a profit in grass-fed beef production in the Northeast is difficult, but to demonstrate the need for more profitable production models.

The alternative model we will discuss is often disliked because it involves selling most of the brood cows to which we have become so attached (they have names). Feeder-sized animals (700 to 900 pounds) can often be purchased for significantly less than it would cost to produce them. With the hungry brood cow gone and many of the purchased feeder steers being finished and sold before or partway through the winter, nearly twice as many animals can be finished per acre, and the amount of stored feed needed each year can be significantly reduced.

The idea that feeder-sized beef animals can be purchased at a reasonable cost from within and outside of the northeastern U.S. is not news to most producers. The concept that it might actually be a good substitute for the status quo might be new to some. If feeders are not available locally, they can be purchased from areas within a 12-hour truck drive. With a delivery charge, that will probably be $50 per animal or less if they are purchased in 50,000-pound loads.

While commodity prices (including feeder steers and heifers) are near all-time highs at present, this approach will usually be a less costly option than raising an animal of an equivalent size from birth in the Northeast. If this is such a good idea, why do so many grass-fed beef producers in the Northeast own brood cows instead of shipping in feeders? In next month's column, we will discuss common objections to this alternative system.

Daniel Hudson is an agronomist with University of Vermont Extension. Joe Emenheiser is a livestock specialist with University of Vermont Extension.

July 02, 2014

Solar powered electric fence chargers.

Do your research, know how many output joules you are buying. Most complete units have very low power ratings. When creating a system there are several problems that can be prevented prior to setup. First and foremost a solar panel should always be oriented due south if you are located in the northern hemisphere at approximately 35-40°. When choosing a solar panel the general rule of thumb is 10 watts of panel per 1 joule of energizer. You can never collect to much sunlight. A bigger panel is always better, as long as you provide battery protection with a solar controller. The solar controller will protect the battery from over charging, and should also be equipped with low voltage disconnect. A deep cycle marine battery is essential to a solar setup. A deep cycle marine battery offers re-chargeability/longevity over a normal car battery. Use a deep cycle marine battery that has at least 100-120 Ah (amp hours) or at least 675 CCA (cold cranking amps), for ideal performance. Reading the directions is fundamental, take your time and correctly set up your solar system.

June 30, 2014

Voltmeter needed for Electric Fence?

The most helpful tool when mending or fixing electric fences would be a voltmeter. A voltmeter is the easiest most efficient way to figure out if your electric fence is going to be effective. Without a voltmeter you can only speculate how your fence is performing. You will sleep better knowing the exact voltage of your fence. Animals will learn not to touch a fence that has 5,000-10,000 volts pulsing through it. There are many different types of voltmeters on the market. Most common are those that manually need grounded by pushing a small pin into the earth. These are very effective and will precisely measure the voltage of your electric fence. Since technology is always changing, there are now units that will measure voltage and detect faults by showing an amperage draw direction. Units of this caliber are very handy when searching for poor connection, bad insulators, or broken wires. Don’t make the mistake of working on an electric fence line without a quality voltmeter.

June 30, 2014

Save on a Gallagher M1000 electric fence charger here!

Gallagher M1000 On Sale Now!

10 joules of power, free fence tester included! Limited time offer, buy today.

Only $399.99 and Free Shipping! BUY HERE!

June 25, 2014

Gallagher M1000 Electric fence Charger On Sale for $399.99

$399.99 ON SALE NOW!  

M1000 Electric Fence Energizer 

(Previously: PowerPlus M1000 Energizer)

 


Features

  • 10 Joules of stored energy
  • Powers up to 250 acres (34 miles) of multi-wire permanent fence
  • Quickscan output Voltage bar graph: shows output voltage of the energizer at a glance and a digital output reading
  • Ideally suited for large pastures.
  • Free Energizer shipping in USA!!! Free Gallagher Baseball Cap with every $500 Order!

June 18, 2014

3 GALLAGHER SMARTFENCE SYSTEMS


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  • 3 SMARTFENCE SYSTEMS SHIPPED TO YOU
  • Each is 330' X 35.4"
  • Connectable.
  • Revolutionary, new all-in-one portable fencing system
  • Completely self contained; all you need to add is an energizer
  • Quick and easy to install and take down
  • Four-wire system, ten posts
  • Easy to carry and store; combines posts, reels and wire in one convenient system
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  6. Quick patch for fence breaks â—¦
  7. Fence off silage bale stacks
Price: $659.99
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