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I have been traveling through Kansas the past few days checking electric fence and cattle ranches. The early cold weather has definitely slowed things down. and many for the grasslands have a thin layer of snow. Cattle seem to be foraging where they can. It should warm up from the unseasonably cold weather soon. 

Electric fences using AC or Mains powered fence chargers in the area are uneffective from the bad weather. They can use more power from the power company when needed.

Battery powered energizers may be effective from the cold because the battery used may be run down faster.

Same with solar powered energizers that use a battery.

The lesson here is to buy the right electric fence charger for your needs. and plan for bad weather.

Traditionally, usage of land has been demarcated by fences - often in combination with geographical features such as rivers and impassable rocky outcrops, or other prominent land marks such as drystone walls and tree lines. Fences are also associated with land use and livestock management - either precluding access by livestock to cultivated crops or improving utilization of veld and pastures.

Until relatively recently all farm fences were of barbed wire, supported by iron standards and droppers, between substantial straining posts. Fences of this kind are both a physical and psychological barrier to livestock and intruders. A major drawback of "conventional" fencing of this type is the expense involved: the cost in April 2000 for a 'standard' 5 strand barbed wire fence was R4 033 per kilometre.

Recent advances in (electronic) technology have ensured that electric fences now offer a viable option to barbed wire fences in most situations - with the added advantages of adaptability and significantly improved cost effectiveness.

Principle of electric fencing
Electric fencing is based on a simple principle: Energisers have two terminals, demarcated "Fence" and "Earth/Ground." A thin, insulated wire is charged with electric energy from the "Fence" terminal. A second, thin wire is connected to an earth. Whoever/whatever closes the circuit between the two terminals receives a substantial, safe (low amperage/high voltage) electric shock.

Equipment and construction
The "heart" of the electric fence is the energiser. Most modern energisers generate approximately 5 000 volts. The ability to sustain this charge depends on the capacity (measured in joules) of the energiser. Small energisers (1.0 joule) are adequate for powering small networks (15 km) of fencing and strip grazing applications. Large energisers (20 joules) will power networks of up to 175 km under normal conditions. The most effective energisers require either a 12 or 24 volt wet-cell (tractor type) battery, or A/C mains as power source. Specialised power sources such as solar or dry-cell (torch) battery models are less common.

Careful selection of an appropriate energiser is essential. Consideration should be given to the purpose of the network (security and/or grazing management), the size of the network, the type of threat/animal to be controlled, the ease of maintenance of the energiser, and the proven service record and reliability of the supplier.

Insulator quality is of paramount importance in electric fencing. The purpose of insulators is to ensure that the full amount of energy discharged into the wire is channelled through the intruder/animal when the circuit is closed. Insulators manufactured from fibreglass-type compounds, treated with fire-retardants and ultraviolet radiation stabilizers during the manufacturing process are the most reliable and cost effective (some are still performing perfectly after 20 years of continuous use). High density polyethylene insulators tend to fail when subjected to fire, and become brittle after a number of years' exposure to sunlight. Porcelain insulators are highly susceptible to physical vandalism. Used and discarded plastic water piping and/or rubber inner tubes are not at all suited as insulators.

All types and classes of animals can be controlled effectively
The "earth" section of the circuit is as important as the "live" or "insulated" section. Furthermore, the larger the output capacity of the energiser, the larger the surface area of the earth-pegs required. Ideally, earth-pegs should be sited in areas which remain permanently moist (for example in close proximity to a gutter down-pipe, down-slope from a drain, near a small stream or natural spring). A single earth-peg made of 20 mm galvanised water-pipe driven vertically into moist soil to a depth of one metre is adequate for a small energiser (1.0 joule output capacity). At least 20 such earth pegs used in a similar manner are necessary for a large (20 joule output) energiser. Clearly, all earth pegs must be interconnected with each other and the earth terminal of the energiser. Stainless steel or copper piping ensures even better earthing. With regard to the actual fencing used, fully galvanised baling wire (2.5 mm diameter) is the most practical for temporary (6 months or less) and semi-permanent (less than 2 years) use. High-strain, steel wire (2.0 x 2.6 mm) is recommended for permanent use (2 to 10 years). Purpose-made nylon wire, braided with 6 strands of stainless steel wire, is recommended for strip-grazing purposes, or those occasions where a network will be used for 3 - 4 weeks at a time and then removed. It should be noted that different soil types have different (electric) conductivities. This has a direct bearing on the fencing configuration used in any situation.
On heavy, damp, clays (and areas under irrigation) all wires in the fence should be "live". In dry areas, on sandy soils, or in areas where the soil surface is covered by dry, non-conductive material, wires should be alternatively "live" and "earth".
When constructing the fence the following basic principles should be adhered to:
Fence strands should at all times be parallel to the soil surface and to each other.
The distance between strands should be such that the animal/intruder chooses to retire from, rather than proceed through, the fence once shocked.

Fence voltage should be maintained above 3 000 volts for wooled sheep, 2 000 volts for cattle and goats and 1 500 volts for thin skinned animals such as horses and pigs.

The fence standards on relatively flat topography can be as far apart as 50 metres with droppers in-between at 15 metre intervals. For control of domestic livestock (cattle, calves, sheep, goats (and even dogs!)) it is seldom necessary to have a fence taller than 900 mm above the ground. 

Problems and fault-finding
Problems with electric fencing do occur. However, if good fencing principles and techniques are followed when the fence is constructed, these problems can be minimized. The most common faults include:
Voltage "leakages" arising from:
Dead shorts - as a result of a direct connection to ground/earth
Vegetation - high volume of actively growing, lush vegetation contacting live wires
Cracked or weathered insulators giving rise to cumulative leakage
Poor earth system:
Inadequate surface area of earth peg(s)
Drying of soil around the earth peg(s)
Loose or corroded connections to the earth section of the network.
Loose or corroded connections in the "fence" section of the network. The use of "reef" knots or "figure eight" knots (in preference to double loops) and use of galvanised line clamps reduce the incidence of these possibilities.
Faulty energisers - a problem which may occur after electric storms and lightening strikes on the fence.
A number of desirable and useful accessories are available for use in electric fencing. However, four items are deemed to be essential. These are a digital volt meter (for accurate measurement of fence performance), cut out switches, a lightening diverter and an alarm linked to a warning mechanism (siren, buzzer or flashing light). The alarm should be placed on the end of the fence furthest away from the energiser and is used to warn the operator when the output of the fence between the energiser and end of the fence drops below a predetermined level. In the event of a voltage drop (reasons may include a cut fence; fence 'shorted out' by an animal/tree branch/intruder; vegetative material causing leakage) voltage readings can be taken and the cause identified. Cut out switches significantly reduce the amount of "down-time" lost in tracing and rectifying faults. These switches are placed at strategic points in the network and are used to isolate individual sections when fault-finding.

Conclusion
Electric fencing presents a viable option to conventional barbed wire or prefabricated fencing. Provided it is properly constructed and well maintained, it is more adaptable, convenient and cost effective than conventional fencing.

If this is your first fence project we recommend you follow three simple steps so you understand your options and can better plan your fence. A well-thought out plan in advance will help you avoid problems later, and assure that your electric fence works as you want it to. 

Before building your electric fence you'll need to take into account many factors including the climate and terrain, the animals you need to fence in - or out, and many other factors. You need to know:

What type of animal(s) do you want to control?
The animal being controlled will largely determine the type of electric fence you need. The animal's hooves, thickness and length of coat, height, jumping ability and many other factors impact your fence selection.
In general, animals with thick, shaggy coats require a more powerful controller than animals with shorter coats and thin hides. Electricity relies on conductivity to deliver a shock, and heavy coats act as an insulator.
One of the conductive wires should be placed at the animal's nose level. The strands need to be spaced so the animal cannot push its head through any two wires without receiving a shock. You may need low or high wires to prevent animals from digging under or jumping over fences.

Do you want to contain or keep out the animal(s)?
A short, safe pulse of electricity creates a psychological barrier that trains most animals to avoid the fence. However, predators, bulls, and other aggressive animals are more apt to challenge the fence, requiring a more powerful fence controller.

What type of electric fence do you need?
We group electric fences into three categories: (1) portable or temporary, (2) semi-permanent or permanent, (3) permanent high tensile
Temporary electric fence systems can also be easily moved by using a battery or solar fence controller; poly step-in posts or steel or fiberglass rods; poly wire, tape or rope; and other lightweight components. Temporary fences typically run for short distances, are affordable, are quick and easy to install.

Semi-permanent or permanent electric fences consist of a combination of either wood posts, T-posts, U-posts or rod posts using any type of wire, tape or rope. Installation is easy to moderate, depending on the terrain and the animal being contained or excluded. Often used for pastures and cross fencing, this category of fence will last up to 20 years.
Permanent high tensile electric fences use well-anchored wood posts to support steel wire under high tension. While more time-consuming to install than other electric fence systems, it is the most effective permanent perimeter fence and provides the highest level of security for keeping out or containing difficult or aggressive animals, such as bulls or predators. A well-built high tensile electric fence requires minimal maintenance and will last up to 40 years.

Why is electric fencing a cost effective option?
Electric fencing typically costs less than traditional barbed and woven wire fencing. In addition, animals are less apt to damage a fence, as they usually don't touch an electrified wire more than once. Choosing and installing high-quality components will pay dividends later with fewer maintenance problems and longer fence life.
A more powerful fence controller may cost a bit more, but will save you time and money in the long run. The higher-powered low impedance fencers increase energy on the fence line as weeds touch it, minimizing the need to remove vegetation. It also gives you greater flexibility to add to, or reconfigure, your fence at a later date.
Consider your investment in your livestock, horses and/or pets. You want to protect them with quality electric fence components that will do the job and keep them safe.
 for attractive, white-rail look, affordable

By Wayne Burleson
 
 With 30 years of experience building hundreds of miles of smooth-wire electric fence, I've seen just about every fencing mistake possible. And I continue to see folks make many of the same common mistakes. I still make mistakes myself, because I'm constantly challenging myself to make fencing easier, faster, stronger, and safer.
 
 High-tensile, smooth wire, electric fencing is the fastest and most affordable fence that I know about, and its technology has drastically improved over the past 10 years. But many folks are hesitant to use it because they remember old failures -- wires breaking, chargers starting fires, wet vegetation shorting out the fence and other troubles.
 
 With a little commitment and a modest investment in time to learn how to use this new technology, you can save thousands of dollars and hours of maintenance time by making electric fencing work for you. So you won't have to learn the hard way, here are 17 common mistakes that you should avoid:
 
 Poor earth grounding. Lots of folks (including me) still think you can skimp when it comes to adequate earth grounding. What we must all learn to do, is install several ground rods -- at least three that are 6 to 8 feet long, galvanized, and attached with good ground clamps. The electricity must complete a full circle back to the charger through the ground. Poor grounding gives weak shocks.
 
 Using different types of metals. Don't do it. When you hook up steel wire to copper something call electrolysis happens and the metal becomes corroded, making a poor contact and weakening shocking power.
 
 Inadequate animal training. Each and every animal must learn that the fence hurts. So please build a handy training fence, preferably on heavy wet soil. Flag the fence for visibility, and force the animal to try and cross the fence.
 
 Fenceposts too close together. Well-intended government agencies recommend lots of fenceposts in their fencing specifications. Fifty-foot spacing on flat land is just too close. You want the fence to act like a rubber band. When something runs into the wire, you don't want to break all the insulators or knock posts out of the ground. If the posts are spread apart far enough -- say 80 to 100 feet -- the wire will just bend to the ground and pop back up.
 
 Too many wire tie-offs. Again, fencing specifications may call for braces every quarter mile wire to tie the wire off. But I have found that even 5,000 feet is OK, and actually adds more elasticity in the fence wire. This reduces the chance of wires breaking.
 
 Wires tied tight to each fencepost. To maintain elasticity (the rubber band effect), wires must float past each line fencepost.
 
 Building new fences near old existing fences. Old fence wires seem to be always moving somewhere and coming in contact with the new electrified wires. This almost always causes a complete short in the fence, and away the animals go.
 
 Bottom wire in contact with heavy, wet vegetation. Wet grass will suck lots of juice out of any fence charger. Hook up the lower wires separate from the other wires, and install a switch for the lower wires that you can turn them off when the grass is tall.
 
 Poor-quality insulators. Be careful here. Sunlight deteriorates plastic. So buy good-quality, long-lasting insulators. Usually black ones are treated to resist degradation by ultraviolet light. I have found that poor quality insulators turn white or clear after a few years in direct sunlight.
 
 Staples driven in all the way. When using plastic tubing as an insulator, don't staple it too tight. I once spent several hours trying to find a short in a gate. Finally, I discovered a staple had damaged the tubing next to a ground wire, causing a hidden short.
 
 Solar panels not directly facing the sun. This seems almost too obvious to be a problem. But a solar panel won't function at its potential if not properly installed. Please read the instructions. Don't just guess if you have done it right.
 
 Kinks in high-tensile wire. A small kink in stiff wire will always break. Also avoid hitting this kind of wire with a hammer, as this will easily damage the wire causing a break. Always cut out a damaged section of high tensile wire and splice it. Incidentally, I have found that a hand-tied square knot makes the strongest splice.
 
 Installing in-line strainers close together. Wires will flip together once in awhile. If in-line strainers are installed one above the other, they will sometimes hook up. Separate in-line strainers by a fencepost and they will never catch on each other.
 
 Wires too close to each other. Keep them at least 5 inch apart.
 
 No voltmeter. Without a voltage meter to check how hot a fence is, you're just guessing.
 
 Wire too small. The larger the wire, the more electricity it will carry. Don't skimp.
 
 Inadequate charger. A wimpy fence charger gives you a wimpy fence. Don't skimp here because animals will think a smooth wire fence is a joke without a strong bite, and they'll walk right through it.
 
 Your fence charger should be low-impedance, come from a dependable supplier, and have a warranty and replaceable components. Please buy one that puts out lots of power. During a rainy year, you may have lots of plant growth touching the wires. That's when you will need extra power to shock through the heavy, wet vegetation. It's also handy to find folks with an extra charger they can loan to you while yours is being repaired. Expect some breakdowns, especially from lightning. Certain fence suppliers offer lightning protection with their warranties.
 
 Don't be afraid to try electric smooth wire fencing. Find a good fence suppler and learn some of the tricks of the trade. I know folks who hate electric fencing. But their pocketbook is not big enough to build a conventional fence, which may cost up to $1 per foot.
 
 The next time your bulls get in a fight with the neighbors bulls and tear down all the fence, remember that most animals will learn not to touch a wire with 5,000 volts running thorough it.
 

For your fence to function correctly, your earth (ground) system must be perfect. But very few are, despite the instructions provided with most energizers. Also I've not seen an instruction book with complete details of how to achieve perfect earthing and completely trouble-free operation in all respects. So I'll give all I know here:

Most farms seem to have earth systems which can't cope with the flow of electrons coming back to it from fences with poor insulation, leakage into vegetation, and the occasional wire which breaks and touches the ground or touches a non-insulated wire. Energizers have become more powerful, but many ground systems and their recommendations have not kept up with them.

When the energiser (charger) earth system can't handle the increased flow of electrons, they find other ways of getting back to the power supply earth system. Unfortunately they sometimes do this through the cows and milking machine, and through steel water pipes or the water in plastic pipes.

Guide to Good Grounding

When the energiser earth system can't absorb the increased flow of electrons from leakage, electrons find other ways of getting back to the power supply earth system. Energisers put out thousands of volts, and just one volt through the cow's mouth or teats can upset her. Here are methods to follow to avoid that:
The energiser earth system must be installed well away -- at least 10 m (33 feet) from mains power earth peg, preferably on the opposite side of the building.
Use 25-mm (1-inch) or larger diameter new or near new galvanised pipe driven as deeply as possible into a moist soil, each at least 10 m (33 feet) apart. Thin, black or rusty fence posts or similar are not suitable. Rust is a bad conductor. A large surface area is needed to give a large contact area between the soil and pipe.
One metre (3 feet) of earth pipe per joule of output of the energiser is usually sufficient for satisfactory earthing in conductive soils. Long earth pipes which are driven deep into the soil give far better earthing than the same total length at shallower depths because soils are more moist and have more conductive minerals at lower levels. Two 3- metre-long pipes are better than three 2-metre-long pipes when driven deeply this way. Large diameter pipes have a greater soil contact surface, so are better than thin rods.
Install the earth system well way from water pipes and bores which are being used. But an unused steel pipe bore can be an excellent earth if it's not rusted or broken.
Connect the terminal marked Earth or Ground to the earth pipes by one continuous length of double insulated electric fence leadout cable -- not household or industrial cables which are made for only 400 volts, not for 10,000 volts. The cable should contain 2.5-mm (16-gauge) galvanised wire -- not thinner and not copper wire, which causes electrolysis at the joins. Bare and clamp the cable securely to each pipe with galvanised clamps. Ordinary galvanized wire can rust where it is damaged or touches the ground. Using cable eliminates this.
It is best to have no voltage on the earth system, but a maximum of 200 volts (and up to 300 volts on a large energizer) are acceptable when the fence has been shorted out to as low a voltage as possible.
Soils are not good conductors, so electrons spread out inclining towards moist and mineral soils when travelling back to the energizer. Aim for a moist area, work out a system of keeping the area around the earth pipes moist. If necessary, take a galvanised wire along the bottom of a fence to a moist area, and then install more earth stakes at that point. If the distance exceeds 100 metres, use two wires. Better still, use aluminium or aluminium-coated wire which is up to three times more conductive than the same thickness galvanised wire.
Some soils are very bad conductors. If you have dry peat, pumice, volcanic ash soils, etc., or soils that are dry at any time of the year, and there is no wet area within a few hundred metres which could be used, a bentonite earthing system can be bought and used. They are a good value. The bentonite mix is made into a slurry and poured down 75-mm (3-inch) diameter or larger holes with pipes set in the centre. Keep them moist. This system can improve earthing by up to ten times.
In extremely dry areas and on snow, use an earth wire return system. This is where there is an equal number of live and earth wires kept well apart on the fence. The earth wires are joined with joint clamps (like the live wires) and connected to the energized earth terminal. The earth wires should also be earthed adequately (no voltage on them) every kilometre. These also act as lightning conductors, keeping it away from energizers.

Testing an Earth System

Testing an earth system without the fencing shorted out is a waste of time. You must create a flow of electrons to load the earth system before testing it.
Also testing the earth by holding the last earth pipe can be a waste of time if the wire between it and the energiser is broken.
To test the earth system, first short the fence out with steel rods at least 100 metres from the earth system. Then use a digital voltmeter to measure the voltage between the energiser earth terminal and an independent earth wire. This should be pushed as far as possible (about one metre) into damp ground in a position handy to the energizer and several metres away from any other earth peg.
To lower the voltage on the earth system add more earth pipes and/or connect the earth wire to the bottom wire of a conventional fence.
Never use your water supply, bore or well as a ground or allow a charger ground wire to touch them or any part of buildings. It can cause shocks in the water and stop animals from drinking, and buildings can become a transmitting aerial for radio and phone interference.
Double insulated underground cable should be used for the ground as well as the live wire. Unused bore pipes or steel well liners are usually good grounds.
Many New Zealand farmers measure Joules (energy) roughly by holding the live wire and feeling the kick in good insulated gumboots standing on one foot to halve the electrons flowing through your body. Caution: Don't do this if you have a dicky ticker or Pacemaker.
High-power energizers are essential for to controlling animals where long lengths of wire are electrified. The high power is on for the very short period of 0.0003 seconds which makes them safe.
Voltage measured at the energizer is useless, especially if the fence wire is thin, limited to one wire or has bad connections. But voltage can be an indicator of the energy when measured at the end of a long fence.
The latest, best New Zealand energizers have a system of telling the farmer at the energizer the effectiveness of the fence at various points, and the earth condition, both of which are extremely clever.
The lower the voltage on the ground the better it is. But with high-power energizers, it can be difficult to get the voltage below 200 volts, which figure is acceptable (provided it was measured when the fence was shorted (grounded) a few hundred metres from the energizer).
Ensure that all electrical appliances wirings, everything metal and all concrete steel reinforcing are all connected by welding or strong galvanised clamps, not electroplated ones which rust sooner.
If your stock are going through fences, check the earth first, followed by the joints on the whole fence, and at the same time look for shorts.
Test your earth by thoroughly shorting out the fence at least 100 metres (330 feet) away from the energiser with steel standards. Doing this creates the maximum current flow so puts a load on the earth system. If your earth pipes can't handle the flow you'll get a voltage reading at the energizer terminals. If there is no voltage, then your earthing system is satisfactory.
You should have a digital voltmeter, then install an earth monitoring point by pushing a piece of 4-mm (8-gauge) wire into the ground handy to the energiser and measure between it and the energiser earth terminal. Don't check the last earth pipe because there could be a break in the wire to it, in which case you'll think the earth is OK, but it may not be.
With the fence shorted out, there should be no more than 200 volts, although no voltage reading is best. The more voltage you read flowing to your earth, the less power you will have on your fence because it indicates that the earth is inadequate and needs more pipes.
To improve your earth system, increase the number of earth pipes and put them in as deep as possible. Tests on several soil types have shown that depth is essential -- 2 m (6 feet) deep is the minimum, and 3 m (9 feet) deep is twice as good.
Doing all the above reduces the chances of clicks on your radio and telephone.

An inadequate earth system reduces the output of your energiser and increases the chances of shocks in milking parlors, yards and water troughs. It takes an expert with sensitive measuring equipment left connected for 24 hours and a recorder to check for shocks in parlors. There may be none during the day, but they can occur when heaters, cookers, etc., are switched on in the late afternoon.

Check your parlor twice a year and yards in many positions at the height of dry weather and the height of the wet period. See your energiser installation instructions for more details on installing it and an earth system.


Poor Earthing Costs Production

A common problem is having energiser earth pipes behind the milking parlor. Leaked electrons (there are always some) flow from the farm under the yard and parlor when the soil is moist. But when it is dry, they look for easier routes, which can be across a moist yard and through parlor pipe work.

In wet weather, electrons can travel along the soil surface and through the parlor, especially after cows enter and pass their high mineral, highly conductive urine. This can cause electrons to even flow across the concrete surface and across pipe work, so affecting the cows.

A short or weeds conducting power off a live wire close to the parlor can result in electrons flowing through the parlor and/or yard because it is the shortest route, especially after cows enter and urinate. The above can occur even when the earth system is perfect, simply because the electrons are flowing to it via the best, shortest and fastest route.

To avoid this, earth systems should be in a damp area well to the side of the milking parlor, or even have earth pipes well to both sides, but never in line with the parlor. The earth leadout wire from the energiser should be insulated, and not allowed to touch any other wire, building or pipe.

Electrons can also move through water pipes, giving shocks to cows when drinking in a paddock, so no wires should be allowed to touch water troughs. Even if not electrified, they can conduct induced current. Cows standing around a full trough waiting to drink can be a sign of power deterring them from drinking.

Where conventional fences have a live wire running with them or as an offset wire, the conventional fence wires can absorb induced current (more so in damp conditions) and become electrified. So unelectrified wires must be earthed or they can build up a voltage which can:
Jump gaps (bad joins) and cause sparks and radio and phone interference.
Conduct current to water troughs they may touch. Animals then won't drink so growth and milk production suffer, and females can get cysts on their ovaries through stress. This happened to a herd near here causes calculated losses of $30,000 over the years it had been happening.
Give people shocks when opening and closing gates.
Give animals shocks as they go through gateways and brush against the wires tied around strainer posts.
Earthing these conventional fence lines is easy because being induced power, it is of low joules (energy or power). All they need is a piece of soft galvanized wire wrapped around all dead wires at the strainer posts and pushed into the soil. These will need replacing when they rust at ground level.

Shocks in sheds and water troughs have cost some farmers small fortunes in lost production over several years, until the problem was identified. New Zealand manufacturers discourage grounding the fence circuit though the earth or ground terminal of the charger to the utility (power supply) grounding system because it is illegal in many countries and can cause shocks in all directions including in your shower. The power supply ground is usually just a metre deep rod. A modern high power New Zealand energizer needs ten to twenty times more.


Safety Considerations

Keep these in mind when you build fence:
Don't string wires across lanes or thoroughfares without marking them clearly. Motor cyclists have been injured through not seeing them.
Never electrify barbed wire.
Train and demonstrate the shock to children and visitors with a long piece of grass.
The thought of 5,000 volt fences on farms near cities could be frightening to townies, but thousands of human contacts occur annually with nothing more than discomfort. However, care should be taken to avoid contact through the head because it is very uncomfortable. Young children and elderly people should be kept away from even low powered fences.

Electrified fences in any position where the public could come in contact with them must be clearly marked with approved warning signs at frequent enough intervals so as to be easily seen.


Radio Interference

It is an offence to operate any appliance which causes any electronic interference, so points to note include:
Some energizers cause more radio and/or phone interference than others, even if not on a fence. Switch it off, disconnect the fence and earth (ground) cables (wires) at the energizer (if they were loose the sparking there could cause interference) and switch on the energizer and check for interference.
If the interference is still there, return the energizer to the supplier and try another unit or brand. Some brands are bad.
If the interference disappears when the fence and earth are disconnected:


Tighten all joins and clamps on the energizer and fences. Those on some energizers work loose because of the thump (vibration).
Ensure that all wire connections are figure of eight or reef knots, or are clamped and tight.
Tube insulators will crack and leak in time. Even double tubes and those with steel inserts leak and spark in some cases.
Sparking causes radio and telephone interference so insulators must be good quality with adequate tracking distance to avoid arcing over the surface as occurs with staple insulators or through the insulator as occurs with single tubing. Use quality insulators with at least 25 mm (1 inch) of tracking distance (length on insulator from the live wire to any other point).
Some cable can have breaks in it causing sparking. Single insulated cable gets cracks sooner than double. (Try bending a sheet of cardboard and a wad of paper the same thickness and you'll see why. The card will crack.) Some of the orange cable from New Zealand cracked and leaked soon after installing. Replace it all.
Even the best cable when buried can become damaged by a stone and then leak. It is essential that all be threaded through 12 mm (half-inch) or similar black plastic piping to give it physical protection. If the distance is long, push a piece of high tensile wire (with its end bent back) through and then pull the cable through. To check under gateways, disconnect before each one and check if the interference stops.
Ensure that the earth is perfect. Check it at the energizer, not at the last earth pipe as shown on some instruction books. There could be a break in the cable so there would be no voltage at the last, or even first pipe.
The earth cable should be one continuous length of double insulated cable or be joined with a good galvanised joint clamp, and must not touch any building or pipe. Support the cable in good insulators.
Use a digital volt meter to test the earth and to locate shorts and maintain tidy, trouble-free fences.


If you still have interference, tighten all joins and clamps on the farm. This is best done in summer when joint clamps have expanded.
Walk along all fences and wires with a radio tuned off the station and clicking. It will get louder close to the interference cause.
Shorting to vegetation or to any grounded object can cause clicking, so disconnect the bottom wire and/or clear the fence line with a weed wiper. Once grass touches a live wire, stock won't graze it, or anywhere near it, so the problem increases. Always have the bottom wire able to be disconnected with a flexible connector and do so before vegetation touches it.
The mains power supply (utility) earth and all connections including power point terminals and plugs must be adequate with no loose or old verdigris connections.
If wires run parallel with overhead phone wires on underground phone cables interference can be worse, so avoid the constructing of electrified fences parallel to telephone lines or cables and aerials, or parallel to other long fences which could act as aerials.
You might find this difficult. Having changes in the fence to under-gate cable reduces the length of "aerial" electric fence wire. It is long lengths of electric fence wire parallel with long lengths of telephone or similar wires which cause the problem which can grow as the fences are extended over time. The closer they are the more the induction. The break causing the spark and interference can then be on the induced wire.

Radio interference is worse in poor reception areas, and if the radio is not tuned exactly on the station. Telephone systems are not always perfect.


Lightning Protection

The long distances of electric fencing now used increase the chance of a lightning strike, so an effective protective system should be used. Lightning often hits the power supply line and goes through the energizer to its earth system blowing its fuse or components. The power (utility) supply earth system should be good enough to attract the lightning rather than have it go through the energizer to its earth.

Finding Shorts

The solid state digital volt meter is important for fault finding and for testing the earth system. It enables accurate reading of the voltage and easy fault finding, because of its extreme accuracy.

Start by going to the first switch (these must be installed along fence lines to save going back to the energizer to switch it off for repairs and for fault finding) and see if the voltage before the switch increases after opening the switch to stop current flow down the farm.

If the voltage increases then go to the next switch. If not check the fence between the switch and the energizer. Neon fence testers are also available, but of no use for finding small leaks or earth system faults. Many are bought and not used for long before buying a digital volt meter.

Electric or power fencing helps make animal farming profitable and sustainable, so the effort required to achieve the above suggestions is well worthwhile. If installation is good and monitoring is done, the labour required is less than with any other system and the profit is greater.

If you have problems, read all the above again. There is a lot to take in, but once you understand it, it becomes second nature.

Take pride in your fencing and enjoy your animals.

You have already decided what kind of fence you need, now the next step is to determine where you will put it. Be sure of your boundaries, check local laws and regulations pertaining to fencing and locate any potential hazards, both natural and man-made, such as underground utility lines and overhead electric wires. Make sure the fence path is clear of brush and debris. Once you're ready, install all end and corner posts. Next, run out a single guide wire to help assure a straight fence line. This wire will become the bottom wire of the fence and serves as a guide for setting the line post.

Attach the guide wire to both end posts. Use a chain grab wirepuller or an in-line strainer to pull the guide wire taut (about 100 pounds tension). For safety's sake, wear appropriate clothing, heavy leather gloves and eye protection when working with any wire fence and, when driving posts or operating other power equipment, wear hearing protection. If the terrain is hilly, drive the rise and dip post first and staple the guide wire to them before setting the line posts.

Setting the post(s)

Check the chart, which gives suggested post space distances for the type of fence that you are building. In most cases, the use of Kiwi Droppers® will allow you to reduce the cost by increasing the distance between posts.

Posts, small end down, can be mechanically driven with a hydraulic post driver or set using an auger-drilled pilot hole and rammed into place. Posts can be handset but driven posts have about five times the holding strength of handset posts.

If you hand set posts for brace assemblies, set the end post in concrete to keep it from uplifting. Dig the hole with a bell-bottom. Before you place the post, hammer a ring of staples, driven half way in, around the end of the post about 2 inches from the bottom. Place the post and tamp in tightly 8 inches of dry concrete mix. The soil moisture will cause it to set up. Fill the remaining hole with tightly tamped dirt to ground level. For gatepost, add an additional 8 inches of dry concrete mix 18 inches from the top of the hole. Fill the hole with dirt to ground level, tamping tightly.

To prevent overturning a post in soft soil and lifting of a post in a dip, increase the post length and drive deeper; again, check the chart.



Brace assemblies

The ASAE (American Society of Agricultural Engineers) recommends a double brace end assembly for American soil conditions. A double brace is rated at 9,000-lbs. pullover resistance and is more suitable for longer runs and larger livestock. Single brace assemblies can be used for fences of six wires or less. You can increase the holding ability of a brace assembly by increasing the length of the top horizontal post. Recently, a new double brace has become popular, which has the holding properties of a traditional double brace, but affords a cost savings in materials and labor. Drive a 6"x8' end/corner post but then use 4"x7' posts for the rest of the brace. The key is that the brace wire extends in a double wrap from the bottom of the end/corner post to the brace pin on the second brace post. To make the job neater, double figure 8 the brace wire.




Corners and changes in direction

A corner can be made using a common end post and building two brace assemblies at an angle from that end post. To reduce material costs, corners may be constructed using post leaning against the pull of the wire: For every 10-degree directional change, use a 4" x 8' post on a 4" lean, 4' deep; for every 20-degree change, use a 5" x 9' post on a 5" lean, 4 1/2' deep; for every 30-degree change, use a 6" x 9' post on a 6" lean, 5' deep. Drive the post by machine on a lean or to the bend. With either type of corner, string the wire to the outside of the bend, or any curve in the fence for that matter.


Stringing the wire

Once the line posts are set, mark them for the proper wire spacing, and string the remaining wires. A spinning jenny or multi-wire fencer will make handling the wire easier.

For electrification, slide on the required number and type of insulators. Staple the wire accurately to its mark at all corners, major dips and rises, and at the post next to where you will install the in-line strainers. These points will create some friction. The in-line strainers should be installed near the middle of these friction points.

To ease installation, attach a chain grab wire puller to the wire at least four feet from a post, pull out the slack, cut the wire and use crimping sleeves to secure the strainer. Thread the other end of the wire through the hole in the drum, cut off the surplus. With the handle turn the drum until no slack remains. Use one tension indicator spring for each set of in-line strainers.

Joining and tying off wire

You can join wire by manually tying a knot but a knot in the wire will reduce the wire strength by a minimum of 30%. It is better to join wire with a mechanical wire link or three crimping sleeves; both create a joint as strong as the wire. To anchor wire at the end, as in joining wire, you can knot the wire but you reduce its strength. The better way to anchor the wire is to use two crimping sleeves or drill holes into the end post and use a wire vise mechanism, which has a tapered barrel that firmly holds the wire.


Stapling

Before stapling the remaining line posts, tension the wire taut, about 100 pounds, using the in-line strainers. This will prevent crossed wires and aid in positioning the wire. To reduce pullout use 1 1/4 - to - 2 - inch long, 8 or 9 gauge slash cut, electro-coated galvanized staples with barbs. If you rotate the staple 30 to 45 degrees away from the flat face, you will prevent the post from splitting and the staple leg will spread, curving outward from the flat face for greater holding power. Drive staples at an upward angle into posts in dips and at a downward angle into posts on rises. The staple should allow the wires to move back and forth freely. Staple the wire to the livestock side but on the outside of corners and curves.


Tensioning the wire

One in-line strainer per wire can tension 4, 000 linear feet of high tensile wire on a straight-line fence over level terrain. To calculate the number of in-line strainers needed add 500 feet for each corner, severe dip, rise or curve to the total linear feet of your fencing project. Divide this total by 4,000, round the answer up to the nearest whole number (for example, 1.3 = 2) and multiply by the number of wires on your fence (2 x 6 wires = 12 strainers or two sets). Tensioning from the top wire down will provide clearance for turning the in-line handle. Use the wire with the tension indicator spring attached as a guide to tension the other wires. Pull the wire towards you and tighten until all the wires have the same "feel" (resistance). After a day or so the fence will set, check each wire and if necessary, correct the tension to the recommended 250-lb. pull.


Grounding non-electric fence

All fences utilizing steel wire on nonconductive posts must be grounded for safety from lightning. Drive a galvanized steel post, 3/4 - inch galvanized steel pipe or an approved ground rod at least 3 feet into the ground, not more than 300 feet apart (150 feet in dry, rocky soil). Attach 5 strands of galvanized wire to the rod and lace through each fence wire. Bend the top of the ground wire bundle into a loop and staple home to a post.

Electric fence

Your high tensile fence can be easily electrified using new high voltage, low impedance type energizers. The construction methods described for non-electric fences also apply to electric fences with one important exception. Energized wires must be insulated from the post; The need for insulation makes it necessary to plan for electrification before you begin construction. For specific help on energizer selection see Energizer guide.

 

Fencing costs are one of the most expensive aspects of livestock grazing. The type of fence constructed greatly impacts the cost per foot, total cost, and annual ownership cost.  In addition, the shape of the paddocks affects the amount of materials needed and labor required for construction of the fence.

This publication compares the costs of building a 1/4-mile (1,320 feet) straight perimeter fence with four different types of permanent fencing plus temporary interior fencing. These are: woven wire, barbed wire, high-tensile non-electric, high-tensile electrified, and temporary interior fencing. 

The type of fencing selected varies by personal choice and the species of livestock to be confined.  In general all configurations shown can be used with cattle, woven wire and high-tensile electrified can be used with sheep, and woven wire can be used with hogs.

The list of materials needed for each type of fencing is from Fencing Costs for Nebraska (see references at the end of the article).  Costs were adjusted to 2005 prices provided by a number of Iowa retailers, although prices may vary.  Labor was figured at $13.60 per hour, the average fence building labor charge reported in the 2005 Iowa Custom Rate Survey, FM-1698.  Gates have not been included in the estimates.

Fencing can be configured in many different ways, using various types of fencing materials. The examples in this publication provide a general comparison between the following five configurations.

 

Woven wire fence

The woven wire fence (see Table 1) employs a brace that uses two 8-inch diameter posts and a 4-inch diameter cross-brace at each end. Posts between the braces are steel “T” posts alternated with 4-inch diameter pressure-treated wood posts. All posts are spaced 12 feet apart with one strand of barbed wire at the top.

Barbed wire fence

Materials for the barbed wire fence (see Table 2) are similar to the woven wire fence except that five strands of barbed wire are substituted for the woven wire and single strand of barbed wire.

 

High-tensile non-electric wire fence

The high tensile non-electric fence (see Table 3) uses 8 strands of 12.5-gauge high-tensile wire on 4-inch diameter pressure-treated wood posts. Posts are 20 feet apart. Bracing utilizes three 8 inch diameter posts and two 4 inch diameter cross braces on each end. Wire tension on this fence is maintained with springs and ratchet-type tensioning devices.

An alternative would be to set posts 30 feet apart and place two stay rods in the wire between each set of posts. Cost would be reduced about $65 for every 1,320 feet of fence, or $0.05 per foot.

High-tensile electrified wire fence

The high tensile electrified fence (see Table 4) uses five strands of 12.5 gauge high tensile wire with three charged and two grounded wires. Bracing utilizes three 8 inch diameter posts and two 4 inch diameter cross braces on each end.   With the exception of brace posts, steel “T” posts spaced 25 feet apart are used.  One quarter of the cost of an electric energizer is included in the cost of the 1,320 foot fence on the basis that such a unit would be used to energize at least a mile of fence. Wire tension on this fence is maintained with springs and ratchet type tensioning devises.

 

Electrified polywire fence (interior use only)

The polywire fence (see Table 5) uses one strand of polywire. With the exception of the end posts, fiberglass rod posts are used and spaced 40 feet apart. One-fourth of the cost of an electric energizer is included in the cost of 1,320 feet of fence on the basis that such a unit would be used to energize at least a mile of fence.

If substituting polytape for polywire, the total will increase by about $30–$35 because polytape costs about twice as much as polywire.  If substituting high-tensile wire for polywire, the cost will increase by about $75 (change  includes switching to 5/8-inch diameter fiberglass posts).

 

Estimating ownership costs

Ownership costs for each type of fence also vary (see Table 6). In addition to the initial material, labor, and construction costs, owners need to determine depreciation and maintenance costs required over the useful life of the fencing. An average annual ownership cost is estimated for each type of fencing. The ownership cost of polywire and polytape is more difficult to estimate than for other types of

fencing. The non-wire/tape components have an estimated life of 25 years; the polywire and polytape will likely last about 4 to 5 years. Based on these estimates, the annual ownership cost for a polywire or polytape fence is approximately $0.03–$0.04 per foot.

A lawful fence. Chapter 359A.18 of the Iowa Code states: A lawful fence in Iowa shall consist of:
1.Three rails of good substantial material fastened in or to good substantial posts not more than ten feet apart.
2. Three boards not less than six inches wide and three-quarters of an inch thick, fastened in or to good substantial posts not more than eight feet apart.
3. Three wires, barbed with not less than thirty-six
iron barbs of two points each, or twenty-six iron barbs of four points each, on each rod of wire, or of
four wires, two thus barbed and two smooth,  the wires to be firmly fastened to posts not more than two rods apart with not less than two stays between posts,  or with posts more than one rod apart without such stays, the top wire to be not more than fifty-four nor less than forty-eight inches in height.
4. Wire either wholly or in part, substantially built and kept in good repair, the lowest or bottom rail,  wire, or board not more than twenty nor less than sixteen inches from the ground, the top rail,  wire, or board to be between forty-eight and fifty-four inches in height and the middle rail, wire, or board not less than twelve nor more than eighteen inches above the bottom rail,  wire, or board.
5. A fence consisting of four parallel, coated steel, smooth high-tensile wire which meets requirements adopted by the American society of testing and materials, including but not limited to requirements relating to the grade, tensile strength, elongation, dimensions, and tolerances of the wire.  The wire must be firmly fastened to plastic, metal, or wooden posts securely planted in the earth.  The posts shall not be more than two rods apart. The top wire shall be at least forty inches in height.
6. Any other kind of fence which the fence viewers consider to be equivalent to a lawful fence or which meets the standards established by the department of agriculture and land stewardship by rule as equivalent to a lawful fence.

References

Gerrish, J., Fence Systems for Grazing Management, University of Missouri, Forage Research Center, Linneus, MO
Morrical, D., Wells, G., & Shouse, S., Fencing Systems for CRP Land, Iowa State University Extension, Ames, IA, 1994 (CRP-8)
Norton, N., Clarke, R., Baker, M., & Malm, L., Livestock Fencing Costs and Information, University of Nebraska Cooperative Extension, 1996, (EC96-820-B)
Pfeiffer, G., Fencing Costs for Nebraska, University of Nebraska, Lincoln, NE, 1990

Good fencing protects and confines valuable livestock by presenting barriers to restrict animal movement. Barriers may be physical, psychological, or a combination of both. Physical barriers consist of enough materials of sufficient strength to prevent or discourage animals from going over, under, or through the fence. Psychological barriers depend upon inflicting pain to discourage animals from challenging a physical barrier of inferior strength.

Traditional livestock fencing materials have included barbed, woven, mesh, and electrified wire, and combinations of these materials. Board fences have also been popular. These conventional materials are still widely used and make excellent fences if properly constructed. However, new materials such as high tensile wire should also be considered when selecting fencing types.

The type of fencing needed for livestock confinement depends on several factors including animal species, age, breed, and production system. Beef cattle on a controlled grazing system have different fencing needs than horses on recreational pasture. Permanent boundary or division fences require different fencing materials than fences for temporary paddocks.

Fencing type and material influence the cost, lifespan, and function of the fencing system. This publication discusses the types of fencing and materials that are available for livestock systems and provides some guidelines on fencing material selection for various livestock types.

I happen to be out in arizona this week attending the Ag Gateway conference. I haven't noticed a lot of electric fences in the area, but also haven't seen much livestock yet.

Electric fence will work in the dry desert if you have enough deep ground rods so the charge can make it back to the energizer. I would say to increase the recommended number of ground rods your electric fence charger is supposed to have by 2 or 3 times... that is 3-9 six to eight foot ground rods.

Your electric fencer will work better if the ground is wetter of course so the current can flow back to the energizer. Gallagher does offer the super grounding kit, which is available at our web site.

please visit our website about electric fence grounding or earthing. we have plenty of information about the topic

Fall is in the air and that means two things: ranch activities increase and Tru-Test Fall scale promotions. This season, Tru-Test has some great promotions for those looking at portable/alley installations as well as permanent installations.

Not sure if you are ready for scales? Visit with one of our scale experts who can help discuss your situation and offer recommendations to help you reach your management goals.

This newsletter includes:

How to save up to $500 on Tru-Test scales
Meet The Cattle Scales experts
Choosing the right scale indicator
Taking your weighing to the next step with Cattle
Increasing weighing efficiencies with electronic ID
Save up to $500 this fall on Tru-Test Scales

Tru-Test has announced some great promotions for the Fall. Last season's promotions only applied to portable/alley installations, leaving those needing permanent installations out of luck. Great news - this season's promotions benefit everyone!

This Fall's Promotions include:

Up to $280 INSTANT rebate on platform purchase when bought with load bars and an indicator
Up to $300 mail-in rebate on scale indicators
Up to $500 mail-in rebate when purchasing a scale indicator and EID reader
And a bonus exclusive to all scale indicator purchases include $100 credit towards 

View the complete details about the Tru-Test Scale Promotions

Meet Your Cattle Scales Experts

Unlike many online retailers and feed stores who carry a phone book's worth of a product catalog, The Cattle Scales focuses excluslively on Tru-Test weigh scales and electronic ID readers.

Our team members are ranchers just like you. We can help you find the right scale system by discussing your needs asking questions, and making recommendations.

A cattle scale system is not just a piece of livestock equipment, but it's also a piece of technology. Given the investment you are making in scales, it is important to ensure that you are getting the right scale system to accomplish your goals.

Contact our cattle scale experts today

Choosing the right scale indicator

The indicator (often called the display or readout) is really the "brains" of a cattle weighing system. The indicator receives the weight from the load bars and displays it on screen. Some models also store weights and animal IDs. Here's a quick description of the indicator models:

EziWeigh5i: Entry level weigh scale - simply displays the weight.

EziWeigh7i: Ideal for basic weighing with Electronic ID reader integration and downloading IDs and weights into a spreadsheet for importing in to cattle software or analysis in Excel.

ID5000: Popular choice for performance oriented needs since all of the animal's weights are shown right on the large display screen. Also includes EID reader compatibility and downloading internal memory.

XR5000: Advanced indicator allows for tracking animal life data and 100 custom fields per animal. A good fit for those looking to store everything on their indicator.

View a comparison of the Tru-Test scale indicators

Collecting weights on cattle without a plan for analyzing these weights limits the management opportunities you have with your cattle.

It's hard to make breeding and heifer selection decisions without knowing how a cow's past calves have compared to the herd or how a heifer ranked relative to her contemporaries. It's hard to know which direction your herd is going in without analysis of calf weaning weights.

Organize your cattle records in one place - No more shoe boxes to spill, slips of papers to lose, or notebooks to get damaged from the elements.
Save time managing your herd - Common tasks such as pasture movement, pasture exposure breeding, and medical treatments can be entered once and applied to a group of cattle. The Calving screen makes calving season easy by pre-filling in information from the dam's breeding records and current location.
Improve decision making - Imported weights are used to calculate ADG, WDA, adjusted weights, contemporary groups, and more. Reports provide you with a birds-eye view of how your cattle are performing, both on an individual level and a herd level.
A few helpful links

Increasing weighing efficiencies with electronic ID

A growing number of producers are using electronic identification (EID tags) to collect data and help with animal identification and management.

EID tags are ideal for processing cattle in the chute while visual tags help for easy identification while in the field. To facilitate this, producers use a match pair set of tags, which includes an electronic id tag and corresponding visual/ear tag with the EID number printed along with a management/tag number of the producer's choice.

No need to key in an animal's ear tag when you can scan the EID tag! EID-compatible models of Tru-Test scale indicators allow for seamless working - scan an animal's EID tag, the EID number is sent to the scale indicator, record the weight on the scale and the weight is associated with that EID tag.

Questions on electronic identification or simply need to order ear tags for the Fall?