Electric fence is easier to install, safer for animals and less expensive than many other types of fencing. “Easier to install” is one of the reasons we use aluminum wire as it has greater flexibility than steel and is 1/3 the weight. Electric fencing is also less expensive since there are fewer parts and pieces to it: posts (at least 25’ apart depending on the terrain), insulators (type of insulator depends on the type of post being used), Gripples and, of course, the energizer and related materials. An electric fence does not require expensive equipment to install. It is unobtrusive. It can be run along an old stone wall and not detract from the beauty of the stone wall and its surroundings. With green posts and aluminum wire, it is barely visible. But the animals (inside and outside the fence) will know it’s there. We have seen these fences containing horses, buffalo, cattle, llamas, alpacas, pigs, sheep and goats, dogs, poultry and the fences are used to keep out deer, bear, coyote, fox, turtles,etc.

When a good friend established All Around Fence Company, in Belgrade Maine, I was introduced to a product that is the ultimate in “why didn’t they think of this sooner.” No matter what you call them – spring rope, bungee or elastic cord – these gates have made moving horses around our farm safer and more efficient.

The last few years I’ve done my own product testing. And I have to say, the manufacturers of the electric elastic cords have done a great job of improving the quality and longevity of the cordage since the first ones were introduced. Some will break down a bit after a year in the sun, but the two types we use on the farm now are testing out exceptionally well.

All major fencing companies serve the most obvious “get-it-here” sites using keyword searches on the Web. Searching for “elastic rope, bungy gate, elastic cord or spring rope” on fencing home pages will give you several selections.

What makes this handle especially useful is that the large ring can be used for hooking multiple gates together. After trying this handle for a while I ordered two dozen more. Four years and lots of abuse later every one of them is still just as strong and usable as the day it was installed.

Another plus to elastic-type gates is that they eliminate the need for spring-type gate handles. In 30 years of operating horse farms I never found one spring-type handle that could take everyday horse farm abuse with any degree of longevity.

There are several advantages to making your own elastic gates. One is the option of utilizing gate handles with a large end ring. Time is precious on a busy horse farm, and being able to hook three elastic gates together for one smooth opening is much more efficient than having to fully open each gate individually. In addition, our drafts are often led as teams, and opening a three-strand gate with one hand is necessary most of the time. I also like the ability to have gate handles at both ends of a section of fencing. This gives more options for rotational grazing and moving horses during mud season to reduce ground stress in heavily traveled areas.

 

Photo by Willowpix/iStockphotography.com

Another reason I enjoy making my own gates is that I can adapt them to the items we already use for our tape and other types of fencing. I’m not a fan of having a dozen different items that serve the same purpose but all require using a different tool for installation or setup. For that reason, I like three-way handle hookups as well as a 2-inch wood post corner tensioner. Although this tensioner is designed for corners, I find it makes a sturdy and versatile gate connector, especially where the rope meets tape on our fences. I also don’t bother with rope clamps for attaching the cord to handles and gate ends. A simple double safety knot with twisted wire rope fencing keepers (keeps the cable from coming out of the sheaves) works exceptionally well. You can also just use the knot and secure the electric bungy cord with electrical tape.

Prepackaged elastic gate kits are nice for areas where only one gate is needed, such as across the top of metal or other types of solid gates. We also use single gates to secure pasture separations, field roads into the dooryard, and other potentially dangerous travel areas. These gates serve as visual barriers as well as secondary and perimeter containment systems.

The electric bungy cord gate kit from Gallagher proved its quality after years in the sun and containing four young draft horses. The foals never once challenged its electric capacity, no matter how excited or anxious the weather or other conditions made them. The gate was installed at its 20-foot maximum with little stretch to spare, and its failure one day due to a wayward moose was fully forgivable. When it did break it was right where it attached to the post, so it was quickly repaired and back in service within minutes. To this day, that same gate system is keeping in those same drafts who are now approaching their teens.

My only negative critique of elastic gates, and it applies to any thin white fencing, is that they are hard to see against the snow. In warmer climates this isn’t as much of an issue, but most owners like to scan the fence lines to make sure gates are closed and the fencing is up. While some manufacturers are adding a red cord to the weave, the predominant white color of the cord makes it difficult to see.

For areas where gates are in the distance, ensuring the perimeter is solid requires extra attention in snowy conditions. This problem can be solved with tape or flagging, or by installing the Gallagher Fence bungy gate. This gate, available in three sizes, has a wide and highly visible wire and polymer braided sheath. At this time it is not manufactured to be easily hooked together with other handles, and it only hooks between two posts and does not retract to a third post as most electric bungy-type gates are designed to do. I have not tested this gate or handle for length of service, but it appears to be of quality.

Proper care for electric bungy gates is critical to their longevity. Do not release the gates quickly so they snap back against fence posts or other items. This action causes cheaper handles to fail more rapidly, and although heavy-duty handles prevent this, it’s still not a recommended treatment. Install the elastic fencing so it never touches the ground, and as much as possible, allow it to stay clean and free from snow, frost, sharp sand, dust and other particles. If you find options for different electric elastic cord, choose one that’s fairly smooth to the touch as it’s less likely to absorb splashed mud or dirt. I have also found that the elastic cord types with a smoother and somewhat hard coating do not deteriorate in the sun as quickly as the softer cotton sheath types.

If you’re a fan of sliced bread and frosted mugs, or any of those other little things that make life simpler and more enjoyable, then elastic electric gates are worth looking into.

Cover Photo by Dcwcreations/iStockphotography.com

 Repairing a Gallagher M1000 electric fence charger. You can buy a brand new M1000 from Valley farm Supply. Check out our website , www.gallagherelectricfence.com or www.gallagherelectricfencing.com 

Over the years we have  tried many types of fencing – both permanent and temporary, on our own farms.  After 30+ years, we recommend Gallagher energizers, 12 ½ ga. Aluminum wire, Bedford Reinforced Plastic posts and Mule corners for an excellent, predator proof, critter safe, permanent fence.  Aluminum wire is  ideal for all fencing needs whether it be cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, horses and other livestock or to keep critters out of gardens, bee hives, Christmas tree plantations, etc. It doesn’t rust and conducts electricity 4 times better than steel. It’s also lighter-weight and easier to handle. If an animal runs into it, it will break rather than cut the animal. If you get a kink in the wire, cut the kink out and insert a Gripple^tm which we sell here at Walnut Grove Farm. A Gripple^tm uses the technology of a Chinese finger: once you put the wire in, you can’t pull it back out. This works for tightening the fence, repairing wires, and building the corners.

Farm fencing acts to keep livestock confined to a certain area, to keep predators at bay or both. Finding the style of fence that fits your specific needs and budget while providing efficient livestock management is a priority on any farm.

“Containment is the major consideration, especially to ensure the safety of the farm animal from getting caught up in the fencing,” said Carrie Chickering-Sears, director of community education in animal agriculture at the University of Massachusetts, Amherst. “Keeping predators out is another factor, though no fencing will keep out an animal that wants a meal. Aesthetics is another, depending upon the look the farmer wants for his or her property.”

According to Carrie Chickering-Sears, pigs can be a challenge when pasturing, but woven wire is a good choice.
Photo courtesy of Large Black Pigs of Maine, Farmington, Maine.

Mind and matter

Fences are typically thought of as physical barriers, preventing or at least inhibiting access to and from a given area. However, some fences can present no real physical barrier yet keep an animal contained. A pile of brush or stones can keep some livestock from wandering away. In some cases, a small ditch, a river or a steep slope can serve as a natural fence. They could be forded or climbed, but the animals aren’t normally inclined to do so.

Today, electric fences serve the same purpose. They may not be strong enough to physically prevent an animal from going through the fence, but the electric charge is painful, and once animals figure that out, they tend to avoid the sensation. Barbed wire fences can also be breached, but the pain inflicted should stop any attempts to do so.

Fences that are physically able to keep animals at bay are typically used for perimeter fencing, holding pens, handling areas and other situations where a strong, secure barrier is required. Wooden mesh wire, woven wire and steel pipe fencing can serve as physical barriers.

“Cattle do fine with an electric fence,” Chickering-Sears noted. “Goats are probably one of the hardest of the livestock [breeds] to keep confined if you do not have proper fencing. They can challenge even the most experienced of farmers, since they are constantly watching for a vulnerable spot in the fence – and I will guarantee that they will locate it.”

Stock panels or woven wire are good choices for goats, she said, but are more expensive than electric fencing. If opting for electric fencing for goats, four strands close together combined with good, strong posts to keep the fence taut are necessary.

“Swine can also be a challenge when pasturing, but woven wire works well,” Chickering-Sears advised.

Check with your local USDA office for grants available for fencing.
Photo courtesy of Vernal Vibe Rise.

Logistics

Before installing any permanent fencing, local zoning codes need to be considered. Are perimeter fences allowed up to the property line? Does there need to be a secondary fence set back off the property line to contain livestock? Can the entire field be fenced, or is there a maximum length of continuous fencing allowed? Conservation programs may have their own guidelines for those enrolled. The fence’s impact on wildlife is also a consideration.

Terrain is going to be a factor when choosing fencing. In areas prone to flooding, or with wet soils, extra care securing posts is required. If the terrain is hilly, following the grade is necessary. Rocky or sandy soils may require extra steps and expense to keep the fence stabilized.

Fences may be fixed and permanent, meant to last decades with regular maintenance, or they may be temporary, needing to be moved frequently, such as for rotational grazing. The Natural Resources Conservation Service standard on fencing (http://1.usa.gov/1nOfdQL) says: “The type and design of fence installed will meet the management objectives and site challenges. Based on need, fences may be permanent, portable, or temporary. … The fence design and installation should have the life expectancy appropriate for management objectives and shall follow all federal, state and local laws and regulations.”

Another concern is the ease of access, both for livestock handling and maintenance. Properly located gates, wide enough for vehicle access as needed, should be planned for efficient means of accessing the animals.

The University of Tennessee publication “Planning & Building Fences on the Farm” (http://bit.ly/1doQBoV) advises: “Wherever possible, locate gates and passageways for livestock and equipment in the corner of each field closest to farm buildings.”

Travel lanes between fields and buildings should be in a dry area to prevent issues with moving animals and equipment on wet soils. An alternative is to use a permanent pasture as a lane through to other pastures, or to utilize movable fencing to relocate the lanes every year or so to prevent overuse.

Expense

Fencing is an expensive but necessary investment. Whether permanent or portable fencing is used depends on the purpose of the fence. At times, a less expensive electric fence may replace a physical barrier fence, and it can be a practical, permanent solution if it’s properly designed and maintained. An electric fence can be used in conjunction with an old fence to add another layer of protection, or it can be strung on closely spaced permanent posts, using high-tensile wire rather than polywire.

The materials used to construct a fence – whether permanent or temporary, physical or psychological – impact the cost. For example, posts can be made of steel, fiberglass or wood of all types (untreated or pressure-treated). The height and the distance between posts, and whether or not they’re anchored with concrete, factor into the cost, as well as the effectiveness, maintenance needs and life span of the fence.

The layout, number of gates and the terrain also affect the cost. If the terrain makes construction difficult, added expense is incurred. If a site requires constant maintenance, the lifetime cost increases. And if the fence is not properly installed to withstand environmental factors or animal impact, it will require repair and reinforcement, increasing the cost. Other factors include proper wire selection to prevent rusting, as well as correctly using staples to prevent wire pullout from posts. All of these variables should be considered to calculate short and long-term costs.

The Ag Decision Maker from Iowa State University (http://bit.ly/1c01ihS) includes estimated costs for livestock fencing. The publication also addresses some of the factors to consider before selecting and installing fencing.

Physical fences

Wooden post and rail fences remain a popular choice for permanent perimeter fencing, particularly in high-visibility locations. Other materials, such as steel pipe fencing or vinyl, provide lower-maintenance options for a durable, attractive fence. Costs for permanent physical barrier fencing are generally higher than psychological barrier fencing.

Not all physical fencing has to be permanent. An example is cattle panels, which can be moved to create corrals as needed. The panels are typically made of steel pipe.

In his article “Livestock Fencing Considerations” (http://bit.ly/1lyLzQP), Russ BreDahl, a now-retired ISU Extension livestock specialist, says: “Physical barriers contain enough materials of sufficient strength to prevent or discourage animals from going over, under or through the barrier. Wooden, woven wire and cable fences and welded panels are examples of physical barriers.”

Physical fencing is most important during separation for breeding purposes, to keep animals off roadways, to prevent access to chemical storage areas, and in areas where animals will be crowded, excited, anxious or not used to fencing.

Woven wire fences vary in height and wire spacing, as well as the size and number of wires. The right choice depends on the size of the animal and its ability to jump. Mesh fencing comes in a variety of sizes and materials. Cable fencing depends on strands of twisted wire to form cables that go through holes in wood or steel posts. The wire has a heavy-duty spring to absorb the pressure of animals pushing against it. High-tensile fencing wires are able to withstand extreme amounts of pressure without stretching or breaking. To remain effective, posts must be properly set and adequate tension must be maintained. It is commonly electrified, adding a psychological barrier.

Psychological fences

Barbed wire and electric fencing fall into the psychological fencing category. Barbed wire is typically a permanent fence that can be taut or designed to sway in a suspension fencing system, where the movement of the wires keeps the animals away. Electric fencing can be temporary or permanent. The animals need to see these fences, as they are psychological barriers and won’t work as intended if the animal isn’t aware of them.

Proper installation and maintenance and training the animals to electric fencing are necessary in order for it to be effective. It is important to energize the system so the charge is carried throughout the length and choose the right controller. The intensity of the delivered shock will depend upon the voltage, amperage and duration of the shock. Animals with thick coats won’t feel the shock as effectively as those without.

Controllers must be sized properly for the length of the fence. If using solar and/or battery-powered fencing rather than a permanent electrical connection, properly maintaining the charge can become an issue. Depending on the controller type, keeping weeds away from the fence line is imperative to its effectiveness. A lightning diverter and sufficient grounding are also essential. Electric fencing can be run with polywire or polytape ribbons, netting, high-tensile wire, aluminum wire or stainless steel wire.

Proper planning can create a permanent electric fencing option. The University of Massachusetts Extension publication “Basics for Livestock Fencing” says: “With a proper gauge of high-tensile wire, the use of compression springs allowing the fence to endure impacts, and well-constructed corners and supports, an electric fence can be as low-maintenance and last as long as a physical fence.”

Considerations

Silvopastured pigs at Forks Farm in Orangeville, Pa.
Photo by Tamara Scully.

Fencing needs to work under the most adverse and extreme conditions. Hungry or thirsty animals will make great efforts to get into or out of a fenced area. Breeding season or weaning can also cause fence breaches. Plan for this with proper management and adequate fencing.

Protecting an animal from predators is sometimes more important than containing them in a given area. If your main reason for having a fence is to keep predators or pests out, consult with an expert to determine the best options for your situation.

“Farmers can visit with their county or state extension service as a resource; plus, they should check with their local USDA office for grants available for fencing,” Chickering-Sears advised. “Another good reference is local farmers or breeders that are willing to share their experiences.”

Each type of livestock has its own needs. Horses need to see the fence, as they can easily become trapped in wires. Sheep might not feel the electric shock through thick wool coats. Pigs will attempt to root under fencing. Don’t neglect the unique characteristics of your breed of livestock when selecting fencing. A variety of fences, both physical and psychological, may be needed to ensure that your animals are secure no matter where they are on the farm.

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Have a great spring building Electric Fence!

10 days until Spring!!

Gallagher’s new Ring Top Post makes putting up temporary electric fence easier and faster.

The Ring Top Post’s sleek new design removes the age-old frustration of tangled pigtail posts, making it easier for producers to store, transport and set up temporary electric fences. Gallagher Territory Manager Adam Ross says a feature of the Ring Top Post is its distinctive ring-shaped head.

Made from heavy-duty, glass-fiber nylon, this head eliminates the risk of shorting and makes it much easier to handle and place standards.

“We talked to producers about what they liked and didn’t like about portable fencing and a common complaint about pigtail standards was that they were constantly becoming entangled during transport and storage. Producers were also frustrated about pigtail heads wearing through, resulting in shorting.”

Gallagher got busy designing a new temporary post that would overcome these shortcomings and provide an alternative to traditional pigtail posts. The Gallagher Ring Top Post was born.

The improvements don’t stop at the head of the Ring Top Post. The Ring Top Post also has a completely redesigned foot section to boost strength and usability. The foot of this post is constructed from over-molded glass-fiber for increased durability. This foot will withstand 440lbs of tread pressure and will not bend out of shape like a steel foot.

The blade-type design of the foot prevents the standard from rotating when raised, and its design again reduces the risk of standards becoming tangled and caught during handling and storage. An extended insulated section also provides extra strength and better handling.

Permanent Electric Fence Construction Tips:

Before discussing the individual components of your electric fence installation, it is worthwhile to do a quick review of the basic principles of how an electric fence system works.

An electric fence is an incomplete electrical circuit. The electric fence charger sends pulses of electrons down the electric fence wires but wire insulators prevent the electric charge from reaching the ground.

The electric fence circuit is only completed when something (cattle, humans, or vegetation) touches the wire, thus allowing the pulse of electrons in the high tensile wire to travel through the body down into the soil.

Ground rods connected to the electric fence charger simultaneously draw electrons back up out of the soil, thus completing the electrical circuit, as shown in the image below.

Your electric fence installation is an incomplete electrical circuit. But when cattle touch the wire, electrons in the wire are able to escape to the soil. The earth-ground system draws electrons back up from the soil to replace the electrons lost from the high tensile wire, thus completing the electrical circuit.

The Earth-Ground System

80% of all electric cattle fencing problems are caused by poor grounding.

When cattle touch your electric fence installation, they will only receive a shock if the earth-ground system is capable of instantly replacing all the electrons that escape to the soil from the fence. If the earth ground system is incapable of instantly collecting a huge number of electrons from the soil, the full charge on the fence will not be released when the cattle touch the wire. So, creating an effective earth-ground system is about building an effective electron collection system.

• A permanent electric fencing grid requires a minimum of 3 ground rods. More is better.

• You need a minimum of 1 ground rod for every 2-Joules of power output from your electric fence charger.

• Each ground rod should be at least 6 feet long.

• Only use galvanized steel ground rods. Copper ground rods will react with your galvanized steel wire, causing electrolysis, which will corrode the contact between the wire and the ground rods. Un-galvanized steel rods (i.e. re-bar) will rust. Rust is a very poor electrical conductor, thus preventing your ground rods from being able to gather electrons from the soil.

• Ground rods should be spaced at least 10 feet apart.

• The most effective ground rod layout is the crow's foot pattern. An image and full discussion of this ground rod pattern is found on page 70 of Grass-Fed Cattle.

• Ground rods need good contact with the soil to work effectively. If the moisture level in the soil is too low (i.e. during a dry year or in extremely sandy soil), your ground rods will begin losing their ability to pull electrons up from the soil. Ensure that your ground rods are placed in a moist area, or water the area around your ground rods during dry weather. If you have very dry sandy soils, drill large holes in the soil that you can fill with packed clay, then embed your ground rods in the clay.

• Use heavy duty leadout cable (insulated / coated wire) and good quality connector clamps to connect ground rods to the electric fence energizer.

• Do not install ground rods near water lines or milking sheds to avoid inducing an electrical charge in water lines or milking equipment.

To learn how to set up your earth ground system for winter, read the article about electric fencing in winter in Part IV of this Smart Electric Fence Grid series.

Electric Fence Energizer

Another common problem in many electric fence installations is an undersized electric fence charger. Your charger needs to be able to push electrons through the full length of your electric fence installation, plus have enough power to overcome the drain of vegetation growing up and shorting out the wire. 

• The power of your electric fence charger is measured in Joules. Your electric fence energizer output should be at least 1 Joule per 6 miles of wire. (Each strand of a multi-wire fence must be added up separately... wire distance on a multi-strand boundary fence adds up very fast!

• Use a minimum 10-Joule electric fence charger for your permanent electric fence grid. A minimum of 10 Joules is required to 'burn off' grass as it comes in contact with the fence. The ability to 'burn-off' grass is extremely important for keeping wires free of vegetation to so you can maintain full power along the entire length of fence. 

How much power do you need on your electric fences?

To contain cattle, you need to maintain at least 3500 volts along the entire length of your electric fence lines - including the portable electric cross fences that you use to subdivide your permanent electric fence corridors. While electric fence charger selection is important to ensure that you have sufficient power on your fences, getting sufficient voltage to the far ends of your fences also depends on the thickness and electrical conductivity of the wires you use to build your fences, the quality of all electrical connections and wire knots, the quality of your insulators, and how free you keep your electric fences of vegetation and other debris that causes the wire to short out. Each of these components will be discussed in further detail below...

Trouble-shooting your electric fences

Get a good quality electric fence fault finder + volt meter + current meter. Many electric fence suppliers sell units that measure all three in a single unit, which makes it much simpler to measure not only if the fence is on or off, but also whether there is sufficient power on the fence line, and which direction you need to go to find any likely faults on the fence.

Posts

Posts can be spaced 60 to 100 feet apart, depending on your topography. Spacing between posts is simply a matter of maintaining a reasonably consistent wire height along your fence line, discussed below.

Always use a rot-resistant post, such as a treated post or a post made of wood that is naturally rot-resistant, such a eucalyptus wood. Untreated wood posts will rot and fall over in as little as 6 to 8 years. The lifespan of your electric fence installation (high tensile wire, insulators, etc) is as much as 40 years because your electric fences only function as a psychological, rather than as a physical barrier, and consequently do not experience the wear and tear of other types of cattle fencing. Make sure you use posts that will have a lifespan that matches the expected lifespan of the rest of the components of your electric fencing system. Treated fence posts in an electric fencing grid can be expected to last for 24-40 years in most climates.

Be aware that many of the chemicals used to treat conventional fence posts are not allowed by many organic certification regulations. Always check with your organic certifying body before building your fences so you are not forced to tear down and rebuild your fences. When in doubt, request the Material Safety Data Sheet for the fence post treatment chemical from the fence post supplier so you can get your organic certifying body to sign off on your fence posts (IN WRITING) before starting construction on your electric fence installation.

Recommended wire for permanent electric fences

Always use at least 12.5-gauge high tensile wire for your permanent electric fence installation. Thinner wires have a higher electrical resistance (similar to how water pressure decreases over long distances because of friction losses inside of small-diameter pipes). You will lose power much quicker as you get further from your energizer if you use thinner wires.

Do not use portable electric wire or poly-tape for your permanent electric fence corridors - they cannot carry power over long distances and will not last many years.

Regular galvanized 12.5-gauge high tensile wire is more than adequate for most farms, however, extremely large electric fence installations that span over several tens of miles may opt to use a much more expensive aluminum wire, which has 4x higher electrical conductivity than galvanized steel wire.

Wire tension and height

Reminder

Just because the 12.5-gauge galvanized electric fence wire is called 'high tensile wire' does not mean you are building a high-tension fence. 

When electric fence wires hang 30 to 36 from the ground, they are high enough to allow newborn calves to freely walk under the wire. That's a good thing because it ensures that newborns can easily catch up with the herd if they accidentally wind up on the wrong side of a fence during a pasture move. The newborns won't go far because they are 'bound' to the herd and their mothers for security and milk. The only fences that need to act as a physical barrier to stop newborns walking underneath are your farm boundary fences (3 or more strands) to ensure that calves don't wind up on highways or in your neighbors freshly planted wheat field.

As calves grow larger and more independent, they will start to 'make contact' with the wire and will naturally stop sneaking outside the day's pasture slice.

Number of Wires

Since your electric fence installation functions as a psychological barrier, not as a physical barrier, once your cattle are trained, you only need single-wire electric fences to contain your cattle. Single-wire electric fences also make it easy for cattle to graze underneath the electric fence to keep vegetation in check. And finally, single-wire electric fences make it easy to create temporary gates anywhere you need them, which is not possible when you build electric fences with multiple wires.

There are three exceptions to this rule:

• Farm boundary fences need a minimum of 3 strands to function as a rudimentary physical barrier if you have a power outage.

• Electric fences dividing the bulls' grazing rotation from areas where the cow herd grazes should be at least 2-strand. Even with a 2-strand electric fence, your bull herd should never be allowed to graze directly adjacent to your cow herd or the bulls WILL jump over or break through the fence. However, this fact about bull behaviour is equally true of even the most hard-core barb wire or wire-mesh fence. Bulls and cows should never share a fence.

• Electric fence weaning should always be done across a 2-strand or 3-strand electric fence. Electric fence weaning is an important strategy that will greatly reduce stress and illness around weaning - you can learn more about electric fence weaning on pages 51 to 53 of Grass-Fed Cattle.

Never mix barbed wire with electric fencing

Never electrify barb wire. And never add electric fence wires to a barbed wire fence.

When cattle or wildlife (or humans!) touch an electric wire, they flinch. Hard. Getting caught up on a barbed wire while flinching from a 'zap' from an electric fence could cause dangerous tears to the body that may even be life threatening.

While electric fence shocks are generally safe on their own, getting tangled in barb wire while getting shocked repeatedly can cause potentially life-threatening burns. Furthermore, the pain of the repeated shocks can cause a victim to panic and get hopelessly tangled in the barb wires while tearing themselves to shreds. There are more than a few deer that have been tangled in barbed wire and died after tearing themselves to the bone while trying to escape an electrified wire that was installed alongside a barbed wire fence.

In short, never ever combine barb wire with electric cattle fencing.

Brace Posts

Every line of electric fencing needs to be supported by tying off to a brace post at both ends of the fence line. However, the traditional H-braces used for barbed wire cattle fencing are overkill for most electric fences because you are not building a high-tension fence. Use Angle Braces for multi-strand boundary fences and the even simpler Bedlog Brace on single-wire electric fences. You will find images and descriptions of how to build angle braces and bedlog braces on page 74 of Grass-Fed Cattle.

Insulators

Insulator quality matters. Cheap post insulators will eventually allow some of the power on the fence line to bleed off the electric fence wires into the posts, causing electrical shorts and draining away valuable power.

Cheap strain insulators (used for tying off to a post) are soft and easily deformed if cattle or wildlife run into the wire. Even the persistent tension of the wire straining against the insulator can cause cheap strain insulators to deform and fail. A deformed or damaged strain insulator will easily allow the wire to cut through the plastic until the hot wire is able to touch the dead wire used to tie off to the post, thus causing a short that is very difficult to find because the fence line is not broken and the short is invisible because it is hidden inside the damaged strain insulator.

Insulator quality also affects how quickly the plastic insulators age. Cheap plastic becomes brittle with prolonged exposure to sunlight so that the insulator may break easily if cattle or wildlife run into the wires. When you're building a fence that you expect to last for the next 3 to 4 decades, don't try to save a few pennies by going with cheap insulators. And make sure you purchase insulators are UV resistant.

The insulator should always allow the wire to move freely through the insulator - it should never grip the wire! Some insulator styles are compressed if you pound nails too far into the post. Any restriction in wire movement will increase the chance that the wire breaks if cattle or wildlife run into the wire.

There are two main types of insulator on the market - those that permanently hold the wire (unless the entire insulator is removed from the post) and those that allow you to release the wire with the flick of a tab (swivel-lock insulators) or the pull of a pin (pin-lock insulators). Permanent insulators are fine for any multi-strand electric fence installation, but single wire fences are best constructed using swivel-lock insulators that you can easily open so you can lift the wire to create temporary gates. Pin-lock insulators are not ideal for creating temporary gates because they are difficult to open while the wire is 'hot' and they break easily. Swivel-lock insulators, by contrast, are much more robust and are easy to open even if the wire is hot. Follow the link to learn more about swivel-lock insulators and temporary gates.

Permanent Gates

Pre-plan your permanent gate locations on your farm map so that traffic flow through gates is not impeded by sharp corners or poor visibility. Always consider traffic flow - in both directions - so that it is easy to get animals back to the corral regardless of where they are in the pasture rotation.

Gates are best located in corners, not in the middle of a fence line so that cattle can't miss the gate and run alongside the herd, but on the wrong side of the fence.

Gates should be WIDE to prevent traffic jams.

Gates in your electric fence installation should be located so it is easy to see whether the gate is open or closed while still out on pasture.

Cattle vision is primarily 2-D, like when you hold one eye closed, so make sure that there is no distraction (like a parallel fence) immediately behind the gate that could be confused for a closed gate from your cattle's 2-dimensional point of view. When cattle baulk at a gate it is often because their vision is unable to discern whether the gate is open or closed.

Every gate in your electric fence installation should have insulated wire buried underneath the gate (calledundergate leadout cable) to power the wire on the far side of the gate. Gates should only be powered from one side so that the gate is not 'hot' when it is opened. This ensures that the gate does not short out against the grass when it is opened. A snapping sound caused by an open gate shorting against the grass will cause your cattle to baulk when going through the gate.

Undergate leadout cable should be further protected by burying it INSIDE a section of rubber garden hose cut to fit the entire length of the gate. The garden hose helps protect the leadout cable from gnawing rodents and sharp rocks. The garden hose also reduces the risk of kinks and bends that could damage the insulated coating on the leadout cable, which would lead to electrical shorts.

Gate handles should have a metal hook so the gate is powered from the handle side, not the far end tied off to the post. This ensures that the gate instantly loses all power when you open it.

Gate Construction Tip

Although screw-in ring insulators are designed as regular in-line wire insulators for wooden posts, I like using them as the wire tie-off on one side of gates in electric fence installations, opposite of the gate handle.

Screw-in ring insulators allow you to completely remove the gate when not in use simply by sliding the wire loop out of the insulator when the gate is open. This prevents cattle, horses, or ATV's from getting tangled in open gates lying on the ground.

Screw-in insulators will break before gate handles break, which is a good thing. Because screw-in ring insulators are cheap and easy to replace, they create an intentional weak point in a gate that prevents damage to gate handles and posts if cattle or ATV's run through a closed gate. 

In-line fence springs and temporary gates

During electric fence installation, it is worthwhile installing springs (sold by some electric fence suppliers) within your permanent electric fence lines to provide a little extra give to prevent breakage when wildlife or cattle run into a wire. These springs also provide a little extra give so you can lift wires over your head (with insulated gloves) allowing you to drive ATV's under your wires instead of bothering to build gates everywhere in your electric fence installation.

Wire Connections, Joints, and Knots

When repairing wire breaks in your electric fence installation, always use knots that have multiple points of contact, and reinforce the knots with a joint clamp. Knots that use two looped wire ends (with only a single point of contact) will cause electrical shorts and severely restrict electrical conductivity. Instead, learn how to tie the figure eight knot or the reef knot for repairing wire breaks.

Tying wire knots

Learn how to tie wire knots by hand. It will greatly increase the speed of your electric fence installation and will reduce the costs of your electric fence supplies. You can learn more about how to tie wire knots by hand (without special tools) on page 72 and 73 of Grass-Fed Cattle.

One of the most useful skills when working with 12.5-gauge high tensile wire is to learn how to tie wire knots by hand. It is much simpler and faster than using crimping tools and will significantly cut down the time and expense of electric fence installation. Tie-offs (such as the post tie-off shown in the image above), wire knots (like the figure-eight knot and the reef knot), splices, strain insulators, and even wire cutting (wire breaking) are all easily done by hand, without tools, and is significantly easier and faster than using tools.

Take a wire-tying course from your local electric fence dealer or refer to the wire-tying instructions on page 72 and 73 of Grass-Fed Cattle. Tying wire knots is a very easy skill to learn. You'll be amazed at how high tensile wire turns to putty in your hands once you master this simple skill.

Cut-Out Switches

Every electric fence corridor should be placed on its own cut-out switch so you can isolate individual fence lines for repair in your electric fence installation without turning off the entire grid. This also allows you to concentrate power only in areas where you need it during the winter electric fencing season. However, remember that except for maintenance and repair situations, all sections of your electric fence installation should remain ON during the growing season so your fences can burn off vegetation that grows up underneath the wires.

Lightning Diverters

And finally, make sure you install lightning diverters in your electric fence installation to protect your electric fence charger during lightning strikes. Smaller grids can connect a single lightning diverter directly to the earth-ground system, allowing lightning strikes to bypass the electric fence energizer during a lightning strike. Extremely large electric fence grids should install additional lightning diverters and ground rods further out along their electric fence installation.

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