June 02, 2015
Save $500 on the Gallagher 610 Cattle Scale System
June 02, 2015
Is Your Multi-Wire Fence Too Much For Your Charger
I’ve been asked a handful of times, “Is my multi wire set up too much stress for my fence charger?” Some manufactures rate their chargers in total linear length of wire, and some rate in single/multi wire, so it can be hard to figure out.
So let’s look at an example:
Let’s say you bought a fence charger rated up to 5 miles of single/multi wire of fence. You put up 5 strands of wire at 2 miles each, making 10 miles of of electric fence.
So now you’re thinking to yourself, “Crap, I’ve got too much fence for my fence charger, now what do I do?” Do you take down 3 of the wires and stay with 4 miles of total fence? You could, but then you just wasted all that extra time running the other wire. So what do you do?
You leave all 10 miles of fence wire up and then take a jumper wire and tie all 5 wires together from top to bottom. I usually do this at both ends. Now what happens is that these wires are now parallel and they divide the resistance by 5, in theory.
So you still physically have 10 miles of fence, but to the fence charger, it only feels one BIG 2-mile run of electric fence. Also by having them tied together at both ends, you have a better chance of keeping the wire together. If an animal breaks a wire loose from one end, at least it’s still tied together at the other end.
Another thing you could do is have a ground return system. You could alternate 3 hot wires and 2 ground wires, or make the top 2 hot wires and the bottom 3 ground wires. Just choose the pattern you like. Then jumper the hot wires together with each other from top to bottom and do the same with ground wires. Then take a single wire and jumper it from one of the ground wires and connect it to the last ground rod.
What you now is one BIG 2-mile run, but you now have a ground return system. If an animal comes in contact with both a hot wire and one of the ground wires, they’ll get the FULL BLAST from the charger. The animal could be floating in mid air, come across both wires and still get the shock of a lifetime. This set up works well for arid areas where the lack of soil moisture reduces grounding.
Both of these set ups would work well for any set up, big or small. This is a way to run more hot wire without stressing the fence charger out.
This is an example of alternating ground and hot wires with jumper wires tying them together.
May 04, 2015
Feral Electric Fencing
Mat Roberts says without the “dog fence”, they wouldn’t be able to farm sheep. “It really is that simple: Gallagher’s electric fence has been integral in our management of the wild dog predation.”
Mat and his wife Lindy manage the 1,300-hectare property “Rose Valley”, in Victoria’s picturesque High Country. Some 650ha is cleared, with 450ha of that surrounded by external electric fencing. The other 200ha has electric fencing but the terrain and river mean it’s not enclosed in what they call “the dog fence”.
The property’s previous owners, brothers Hugh and Rick Hoskins, first installed six kilometres of boundary electric fencing from Gallagher in 1994.
Mat says, “They copped quite a hammering from dogs, and just couldn’t keep doing what they were doing. Once the dog fence was in, it completely turned their job around. That’s why after the 2006/7 fires, we extended it where boundary fence had been burnt on land we’d recently bought, and continued it around a further 202ha of grazing land. We now have 14km of boundary dog fence, and another 10km of internal electric fence to manage livestock and pasture.”
Reduced stress, different focus
“The dog fence is not a silver bullet for the wild dog problem — the dogs are still there, on the outside. It is, however, a fantastic tool that gives us the confidence to focus on other jobs, and not be stressing continually over wild dogs.
“That’s a comment you hear often from people who are under impact from wild dogs: it’s just that continual waking up every day, with a sick-in-the-gut feeling of what disaster you’re going to find out in the paddock because of wild dogs. This Gallagher feral fence gives us peace of mind. We’ve still had incidents with wild dogs, but they’re minimal to the pre-fence days and certainly to what other people have.
“Dog attacks knock you about. They’re a continual thing and become your all-encompassing focus, so other things don’t get done. The previous owners told us how the fence changed their lifestyle. We find the same — you can focus on other farm activities, or even lifestyle activities.”
Gallagher experience a drawcard
Mat says when they wanted to extend the boundary feral fencing and install internal fencing, they went back to Gallagher.
“We knew through experience it worked. We didn’t look around. The property was running Gallagher gear and it’s been really good. Because we were relying so much on the fence, we’d come in contact with our local rep a bit, just with queries or questions or when we were doing changes or improvements, so we’d build a great relationship there, and with the stores — Rodwells in Mansfield, Hunters in Wangaratta and Tafco in Myrtleford.
“When we built the extra dog fence, we wanted to make some improvements too. The rep came out and we tried different energisers and systems. It was a very good way of resolving what needed to be done.”
Performance visible in an instant
Mat and Lindy installed two M2800 i Series Energizer Systems, adding an extra two remote monitors on each (one comes standard).
“This i Series, it enables us to just walk up to the shed, look at the screens on the energizer controllers, and we can tell straightaway how the fence is performing and if there are any issues with it. And that’s not just here at the shed, but through the monitors at remote points.
“Our most important monitor is probably the one right at the end of the fence. It’s all very well sitting at the workshop knowing that there’s 7,000 volts here, but it’s great to know there’s also 7,000 volts at the far end of the fence, and that’s what the i Series allows us to do. If there’s any sort of breach from a tree or anything causing a short on the fence, it’ll show up.”
Knowledge an advantage on conventional
“That’s the point we often make: people say that with a conventional fence you don’t have an issue if a branch falls on it, or if something happens you don’t necessarily have to go straight down and fix it, because there’s no power to short on a conventional fence.
“My answer to that is that with a conventional fence, you don’t know that branch is there until you physically go out around — in our case 14km of fence. With electric fencing, if there’s something, we’re aware of it and we can make an informed decision on how to manage it; we’re not flying blind.”
Repair simpler
Mat says another reason they chose electric fencing was its cost effectiveness to install and ease of repair. “This is a heavily treed area, so there are always trees that come down and so forth. From a repair point of view, it’s easier than a conventional netting or hinge-joint style of fence. Electric fencing just ticks all the boxes for us.”
Mat says these are also the reasons they chose Gallagher for their internal electric fencing. “For stock management and pasture effectiveness, it’s great.”
Maintenance key – and straightforward
He says they aim to use the best components they can. “We know that how well the electric fence works is a direct reflection of how well it’s built in the first place, and then maintenance is as important as constructing it properly.
“But we’re certainly more than happy to allocate time to maintaining it. It’s more than some people would do on their conventional fences, but then the benefits we get from maintaining that electric fence far outweigh the time.”
The bottom hotwire is about 100 millimetres off the ground, but varies according to the terrain. “There’s a balance between having it too low, where grass can short it out; or too high, so it lets animals under.”
Mat says an annual spray under the line for weeds and grass takes about three hours in spring — “it’s not a lot”. Strong autumn growth might see them needing a second spray.
Reliability and relationship are strengths
“The M2800 i Series Energizers obviously run on electronics, and there’s always the potential for electronics to go wrong, but these systems are just so reliable. “Also, the follow-up with the support we’ve had through our rep has been exceptional.
“I guess that’s as important as the reliability of the machine, because anything can and will breakdown, it’s more how you deal with it — especially for the likes of us, who are relying on it heavily from the dog point of view.
“We’re not kidding ourselves that the dog problem is all fixed because of the fence and we don’t have to pay attention any more. But it is a very successful tool for us. We certainly couldn’t do what we do without the fence. If the Hoskins brothers hadn’t built the original fence and had instead got out of sheep before we came in 2002, we would have assumed that this just wasn’t viable sheep country. The fence allows us to run sheep here, and enjoy this beautiful area, despite the dog problem.”
Mat and his wife Lindy manage the 1,300-hectare property “Rose Valley”, in Victoria’s picturesque High Country. Some 650ha is cleared, with 450ha of that surrounded by external electric fencing. The other 200ha has electric fencing but the terrain and river mean it’s not enclosed in what they call “the dog fence”.
The property’s previous owners, brothers Hugh and Rick Hoskins, first installed six kilometres of boundary electric fencing from Gallagher in 1994.
Mat says, “They copped quite a hammering from dogs, and just couldn’t keep doing what they were doing. Once the dog fence was in, it completely turned their job around. That’s why after the 2006/7 fires, we extended it where boundary fence had been burnt on land we’d recently bought, and continued it around a further 202ha of grazing land. We now have 14km of boundary dog fence, and another 10km of internal electric fence to manage livestock and pasture.”
Reduced stress, different focus
“The dog fence is not a silver bullet for the wild dog problem — the dogs are still there, on the outside. It is, however, a fantastic tool that gives us the confidence to focus on other jobs, and not be stressing continually over wild dogs.
“That’s a comment you hear often from people who are under impact from wild dogs: it’s just that continual waking up every day, with a sick-in-the-gut feeling of what disaster you’re going to find out in the paddock because of wild dogs. This Gallagher feral fence gives us peace of mind. We’ve still had incidents with wild dogs, but they’re minimal to the pre-fence days and certainly to what other people have.
“Dog attacks knock you about. They’re a continual thing and become your all-encompassing focus, so other things don’t get done. The previous owners told us how the fence changed their lifestyle. We find the same — you can focus on other farm activities, or even lifestyle activities.”
Gallagher experience a drawcard
Mat says when they wanted to extend the boundary feral fencing and install internal fencing, they went back to Gallagher.
“We knew through experience it worked. We didn’t look around. The property was running Gallagher gear and it’s been really good. Because we were relying so much on the fence, we’d come in contact with our local rep a bit, just with queries or questions or when we were doing changes or improvements, so we’d build a great relationship there, and with the stores — Rodwells in Mansfield, Hunters in Wangaratta and Tafco in Myrtleford.
“When we built the extra dog fence, we wanted to make some improvements too. The rep came out and we tried different energisers and systems. It was a very good way of resolving what needed to be done.”
Performance visible in an instant
Mat and Lindy installed two M2800 i Series Energizer Systems, adding an extra two remote monitors on each (one comes standard).
“This i Series, it enables us to just walk up to the shed, look at the screens on the energizer controllers, and we can tell straightaway how the fence is performing and if there are any issues with it. And that’s not just here at the shed, but through the monitors at remote points.
“Our most important monitor is probably the one right at the end of the fence. It’s all very well sitting at the workshop knowing that there’s 7,000 volts here, but it’s great to know there’s also 7,000 volts at the far end of the fence, and that’s what the i Series allows us to do. If there’s any sort of breach from a tree or anything causing a short on the fence, it’ll show up.”
Knowledge an advantage on conventional
“That’s the point we often make: people say that with a conventional fence you don’t have an issue if a branch falls on it, or if something happens you don’t necessarily have to go straight down and fix it, because there’s no power to short on a conventional fence.
“My answer to that is that with a conventional fence, you don’t know that branch is there until you physically go out around — in our case 14km of fence. With electric fencing, if there’s something, we’re aware of it and we can make an informed decision on how to manage it; we’re not flying blind.”
Repair simpler
Mat says another reason they chose electric fencing was its cost effectiveness to install and ease of repair. “This is a heavily treed area, so there are always trees that come down and so forth. From a repair point of view, it’s easier than a conventional netting or hinge-joint style of fence. Electric fencing just ticks all the boxes for us.”
Mat says these are also the reasons they chose Gallagher for their internal electric fencing. “For stock management and pasture effectiveness, it’s great.”
Maintenance key – and straightforward
He says they aim to use the best components they can. “We know that how well the electric fence works is a direct reflection of how well it’s built in the first place, and then maintenance is as important as constructing it properly.
“But we’re certainly more than happy to allocate time to maintaining it. It’s more than some people would do on their conventional fences, but then the benefits we get from maintaining that electric fence far outweigh the time.”
The bottom hotwire is about 100 millimetres off the ground, but varies according to the terrain. “There’s a balance between having it too low, where grass can short it out; or too high, so it lets animals under.”
Mat says an annual spray under the line for weeds and grass takes about three hours in spring — “it’s not a lot”. Strong autumn growth might see them needing a second spray.
Reliability and relationship are strengths
“The M2800 i Series Energizers obviously run on electronics, and there’s always the potential for electronics to go wrong, but these systems are just so reliable. “Also, the follow-up with the support we’ve had through our rep has been exceptional.
“I guess that’s as important as the reliability of the machine, because anything can and will breakdown, it’s more how you deal with it — especially for the likes of us, who are relying on it heavily from the dog point of view.
“We’re not kidding ourselves that the dog problem is all fixed because of the fence and we don’t have to pay attention any more. But it is a very successful tool for us. We certainly couldn’t do what we do without the fence. If the Hoskins brothers hadn’t built the original fence and had instead got out of sheep before we came in 2002, we would have assumed that this just wasn’t viable sheep country. The fence allows us to run sheep here, and enjoy this beautiful area, despite the dog problem.”
April 03, 2015
tools for building your electric fence
we have a great selection of fencing tools for your farms electric fence. check out our website at www.gallagherelectricfence.com Its a great website for all kinds of electric fence products.
Here are links to some tools you should have
http://gallagherelectricfencing.com/collections/m-gallagher-fencing-tools
Gallagher Fencing Tools Essential for Building Electric Fence Projects
Gallagher provides a complete range of fence tools for any job including electric fencing tools, tumble wheels, fence pliers, crimp tools, wire cutters, spinning jennies, fence testers, chain grabs and wire dispensers.
Free Gallagher Baseball Cap with every $500 Order!
Gallagher Tumble Grazing Wheel 5 Pack G63800 Moveable Electric Fence
GALLAGHER TUMBLE WHEEL 5 PACK
$374.99
Gallagher H.D. High Tensile Wire Spinning Jenny Electric Fence Tools
GALLAGHER H.D. SPINNING JENNY
$129.99 $144.99
KFS High Tensile Fence Wire Spinning Jenny Unwinder
KFS WIRE SPINNING JENNY
$99.99
Gallagher Rapid Wire Tightner Tool G645004 Electric Fence Strainer
GALLAGHER RAPID WIRE-TIGHTENER TOOL
$89.99 $99.99
Gallagher / Maun Power Fence Pliers G52200
GALLAGHER POWER FENCE PLIERS
$79.99 $88.99
Gallagher 2 Groove Electric fence Wire Crimp / Splice Tool A609A
GALLAGHER 2 GROOVE WIRE SPLICE TOOL
$74.99 $82.99
Gallagher High Tensile Wire Spinning Jenny
GALLAGHER SPINNING JENNY
$69.99 $77.99
Gallagher Digital Voltmeter Fence Tester G503014
GALLAGHER DIGITAL VOLTMETER
$49.99 $53.49
4 SLOT ELECTRIC FENCE CRIMPING TOOL
4 SLOT CRIMPING TOOL
$49.99
Gallagher Neon Light Voltage Tester G501004 | Electric Fence Voltmeter
GALLAGHER NEON TESTER
$47.99 $53.49
Gallagher Live Lite Fence Voltage Indicator G51100
NEW GALLAGHER LIVE LITE FENCE IN...
$33.49
FENCE ALERT Warning Light
FENCE ALERT Warning Light
$26.99
Gallagher High Tensile Fence Wire Cutter G524
GALLAGHER HI TENSILE WIRE CUTTER
$19.99 $21.99
Gallagher Spring Ratchet In-Line Strainer Handle Electric Fence Tool
GALLAGHER IN-LINE STRAINER HANDL...
$18.99 $19.99
Gallagher In Line Strainer Wheel Tightner Handle A644
GALLAGHER WHEEL TIGHTENER HANDLE
$12.99 $14.49
Gallagher 3 Hole Fence Wire Twister, Twisting Tool Electric Fencing
GALLAGHER 3 HOLE WIRE TWISTER
$5.99
Ring Insulator Spinner | Electric Fence Insulators
RING INSULATOR SPINNER
$4.99
Gallagher Electric Fence Warning Sign G602404
Gallagher Electric Fence Warning...
$3.49
April 01, 2015
What Does It Cost to Run a Fence Charger?
Fence chargers only cost us pennies per day, folks tell us. Now here’s how you can figure how many pennies at your place.
Editors Note: This comes to us from Steve Freeman’s Pasture Pro blog and was written by Gary Duncan. Gary has been active in the fence business for over 15 years. He also raises Highland cattle in a management intensive grazing system and was the first person to market the PasturePro post back in 2005.
Over the years many people have asked me – how much is it going to cost to run my fence charger? I usually respond that it will be “pennies per month”, but this is pretty easy to compute yourself.
The only thing you will need to know is how many watts your particular charger pulls and the kilowatt charge from your particular electric utility company. This is assuming that you have a standard mains unit that plugs into a standard 110V outlet.
The basic equation is: watts x time / 1000 = kWh
Watts = The watts per hour consumed by the electric fence charger during operation. This is probably not printed on the cover of the charger, but is usually on the box or the instruction manual that should come with it. If you don’t have the box or manual, then call the manufacturer and they should be able to tell you.
Time = The amount of time the charger is operated. This should be calculated into hours per day and then days per month. Normal you will be running your charger on a continuous basis of 24/7 and the utility company billing period is normally for a 30 day period.
1000 = Dividing by the number 1000 places the total into kilowatt-hours, which is what most utility companies use as the rate of consumption.
Example:
The power consumption of most chargers for agricultural / livestock control purposes will range from 10 watts up to 50 watts. One of the very largest ones will pull a maximum of 50 watts (I think that this will equate to running a 50 watt light bulb). Operating a 10 watt charger continuously for 24 hours per day for 30 days at a utility company rate of 10 cents per kilowatt-hour will equal:
10 watts x 24 hours per day x 30 days / 1000 = 7.2 kilowatt-hours (kWh)
7.2 kWh x 10 cents = 72 cents
So $0.72 is the cost of operating the 10 watt charger for 30 days at this rate, or a whopping cost of $8.64 per year. Now you know how much your electric fencing system is costing you to run. Pretty cheap, huh? So cheap, in fact, that I am surprised that someone hasn’t put a tax on it !!
By Kathy Voth / March 30, 2015
March 31, 2015
Repairing a Gallagher M100 Electric Charger
This is a video of a new style Gallagher Wrangler (M100). It had a burnt out neon green bulb and a bad trigger SCR. Originally the unit wouldn't come on and pulse at all.
The rest of the board, the output transformer, and the charging capacitor all tested fine.
Installed a higher amp rated trigger SCR, so
it will hold up a lot better and longer than the original one.
The repair on this one is $18 for parts and labor plus shipping. A brand new Gallagher a Wrangler/M100 retail around $100, so this is well worth repairing
This is a video of a new style Gallagher Wrangler (M100). It had a burnt out neon green bulb and a bad trigger SCR. Originally the unit wouldn't come on and pulse at all. The rest of the board, the output transformer, and the charging capacitor all tested fine.Installed a higher amp rated trigger SCR, soit will hold up a lot better and longer than the original one.The repair on this one is $18 for parts and labor plus shipping. A brand new Gallagher a Wrangler/M100 retail around $100, so this is well worth repairing
Posted by Fencer Fixer Repair LLC on Monday, March 23, 2015
March 30, 2015
An old video of Gallagher Electric Fence building
A practical guide to electric fence building for Gallagher Power Fencing. Order electric fence chargers, fencing supplies, livestock scales, cattle waterers, etc
March 29, 2015
An old Gallagher M1500 repair
This is a video of the opening and visual inspection of a Gallagher M1500. This unit is totally destroyed from either being submerged in water or possible lightning surge. With the all the corrosion, we're leaning more towards submerged I water.
This unit will need a total rebuild. Can probably fix up a good spare board and some other pays to help save some money on parts. Don't know what it'll cost at this time, but should be cheaper than a new unit. Would pay $600 or so for something comparable in size and power
This is a video of the opening and visual inspection of a Gallagher M1500. This unit is totally destroyed from either being submerged in water or possible lightning surge. With the all the corrosion, we're leaning more towards submerged I water. This unit will need a total rebuild. Can probably fix up a good spare board and some other pays to help save some money on parts. Don't know what it'll cost at this time, but should be cheaper than a new unit. Would pay $600 or so for something comparable in size and power
Posted by Fencer Fixer Repair LLC on Friday, March 27, 2015
Our first energizer was a Gallagher and we have continued using and selling them ever since. When necessary, we are able to repair the units, no matter how old, since Gallagher continues to provide repair parts for all their energizers. (We are still using a 30+ year old unit.) All Gallagher energizers carry a two-year warranty (they must have a Gallagher lightening diverter to qualify for damage due to lightening strike). We have a complete selection of repair parts, including module boards and transformers for the units we sell and can frequently repair them “while you wait.” The most popular units include the B11, a battery operated unit; solar units: S17, S20 and S50; and plug-in models, M150, M300, M600 and M1000. We keep these chargers in stock and can easily order any unit that Gallagher carries and expect it to be here within a week or so.
When considering your energizer purchase, it is wise to keep the following in mind:
“Miles of Fence.” The standard “miles of fence” in describing the power of a fence controller has been in use for many years. Although this standard is still used in evaluating energizers, a unit which is rated as a fifty mile unit only means that it can effectively power 50 miles of a weed free, properly insulated, single strand of 14 to 18 gauge wire that is 30 to 36 inches off the ground. It does not take into consideration the weed loading or the electromagnetic resistance that occurs in multiple wire fences. A 50 mile energizer will not necessarily power 10 miles of five wire high tensile fence. Although an energizer rated in “Miles of Fence” may be as good as a unit rated in joules, it is difficult to make a fair comparison using this method of rating. It would be like comparing two cars on how many miles they will go on a tank of gas without taking into consideration horsepower or any other factors.
Choosing the Right Energizer for the Job: There are many fine products being produced today, both in the United States and overseas, which have truly opened up a whole new area of livestock management in recent years. Choosing the “right” energizer for the job is not an easy process. The power of the unit required for a fencing job will vary greatly depending on many factors, such as, the area to be fenced, the number of wires, the animal being controlled, the use of higher resistance temporary fencing and the expected weed pressure. As in the case with any farm equipment which is purchased, especially an electrical device such as an energizer, one of the most important factors in deciding on what kind or make of energizer to buy is the dealer’s knowledge about what he is selling. A responsible energizer dealer should set a novice fence builder up with the right energizer for the job. Since the value of an electric fence is based on its ability to deliver an adequate electrical charge to keep animals away, purchasing an energizer that is ill equipped for the job you are asking it to do makes a fence useless. On the other hand, purchasing a high power energizer to do a small job can be a waste of money.
March 21, 2015
How to design an electric fence that works for your farm.
Shock Therapy: The Right Electric Fence for Your Farm
By Ann Larkin Hansen | Illustration by Ray E. Watkins Jr.
Modern electric fencing is perhaps the most versatile and cost-effective tool available for containing domestic animals or protecting plantings, poultry and livestock. It also has revolutionized sustainable agriculture by making rotational grazing (aka management-intensive grazing) easy and flexible. But an electric fence works only if all the pieces are connected right and the type, number and height of wires are suited to the critters you want to keep in or out.
Types of Wires
Wires for electric fences are either metal or plastic. Metal wire is best for permanent structures, while the light, flexible plastic wires (called polywire) are perfect for temporary fences. Use thicker polyrope or polyribbon for more visible enclosures. For small areas and poultry, you can’t beat electric net fencing. But the larger the area, the less practical it becomes since it’s expensive as well as awkward to set up and move. To use wires instead of net, start with our recommendations for heights and spacing for various animals (thanks to electric fence-supply companies Premier and Gallagher for their assistance). If your fence doesn’t adequately control the animals you’re trying to keep in or out (see below), and you’re sure you have enough voltage and a good ground system, then add wires, move them closer together or put a grounded wire between the charged wires. Often we’re trying to control more than one type of animal with the same fence, such as sheep and coyotes. Always build and charge the fence for the more difficult-to-control animal, and don’t hesitate to use additional wires—either higher, lower or more closely spaced—to ensure good control. For most domestic animals, you’ll want a minimum of 2,000 volts on the fence wire. For sheep and wild animals, have a minimum of 4,000 volts. You won’t need more than 8,000 volts for any type of animal.
Keeping Animals In
Poultry. Use electric net or several wires set just a few inches apart so as to both keep the birds in and predators out. Sheep and goats. Start with three wires at 10, 20 and 30 inches high. Add more wires more closely spaced, if needed. Pigs. Use polyribbon or rope, and start with wires at 8 and 16 inches high. Pigs are very sensitive to electricity, but have poor eyesight. Equines. Since horses, mules and donkeys come in all different sizes, place three wires at the average height of your herd’s knees, point of shoulder and at or a little below the withers. Horses tend to outrun their eyes, so using highly visible polyribbon, rope or fluttering strips of plastic on at least the top wire is a good idea. Cattle. The easiest of domestic animals to contain with an electric fence. For pasture subdivisions, a single strand of polywire at nose height is usually all that’s needed. For more permanent fences, use three strands of electric wire or offset insulators to run a single electric wire along a permanent physical fence.
Keeping Wild Animals Out
Rabbits. One wire 3 or 4 inches off the ground. Raccoons. Two wires at 6 and 12 inches high. Woodchucks, small dogs, cats. Three wires at 4, 11 and 18 inches high. Larger dogs, coyotes and wolves. Lowest wire at 6 inches above the ground; other wires spaced 6 to 7 inches apart, up to a height of at least 42 inches. Bears. Three wires spaced 10 inches apart, starting at 10 inches above the ground. Since bears have such poor eyesight, use polyrope or polyribbon instead of metal wire or polywire, or tie fluttering plastic or tinfoil strips to the wire. Deer. Build a three-dimensional fence. First, build an outer fence using a single wire 30 to 32 inches high, and an inner fence 3 feet away, with two wires at about 20 and 48 inches in height. Deer are great jumpers but have poor depth perception, and this fence confuses them enough to stop them from jumping.
By Ann Larkin Hansen | Illustration by Ray E. Watkins Jr.
Modern electric fencing is perhaps the most versatile and cost-effective tool available for containing domestic animals or protecting plantings, poultry and livestock. It also has revolutionized sustainable agriculture by making rotational grazing (aka management-intensive grazing) easy and flexible. But an electric fence works only if all the pieces are connected right and the type, number and height of wires are suited to the critters you want to keep in or out.
Types of Wires
Wires for electric fences are either metal or plastic. Metal wire is best for permanent structures, while the light, flexible plastic wires (called polywire) are perfect for temporary fences. Use thicker polyrope or polyribbon for more visible enclosures. For small areas and poultry, you can’t beat electric net fencing. But the larger the area, the less practical it becomes since it’s expensive as well as awkward to set up and move. To use wires instead of net, start with our recommendations for heights and spacing for various animals (thanks to electric fence-supply companies Premier and Gallagher for their assistance). If your fence doesn’t adequately control the animals you’re trying to keep in or out (see below), and you’re sure you have enough voltage and a good ground system, then add wires, move them closer together or put a grounded wire between the charged wires. Often we’re trying to control more than one type of animal with the same fence, such as sheep and coyotes. Always build and charge the fence for the more difficult-to-control animal, and don’t hesitate to use additional wires—either higher, lower or more closely spaced—to ensure good control. For most domestic animals, you’ll want a minimum of 2,000 volts on the fence wire. For sheep and wild animals, have a minimum of 4,000 volts. You won’t need more than 8,000 volts for any type of animal.
Keeping Animals In
Poultry. Use electric net or several wires set just a few inches apart so as to both keep the birds in and predators out. Sheep and goats. Start with three wires at 10, 20 and 30 inches high. Add more wires more closely spaced, if needed. Pigs. Use polyribbon or rope, and start with wires at 8 and 16 inches high. Pigs are very sensitive to electricity, but have poor eyesight. Equines. Since horses, mules and donkeys come in all different sizes, place three wires at the average height of your herd’s knees, point of shoulder and at or a little below the withers. Horses tend to outrun their eyes, so using highly visible polyribbon, rope or fluttering strips of plastic on at least the top wire is a good idea. Cattle. The easiest of domestic animals to contain with an electric fence. For pasture subdivisions, a single strand of polywire at nose height is usually all that’s needed. For more permanent fences, use three strands of electric wire or offset insulators to run a single electric wire along a permanent physical fence.
Keeping Wild Animals Out
Rabbits. One wire 3 or 4 inches off the ground. Raccoons. Two wires at 6 and 12 inches high. Woodchucks, small dogs, cats. Three wires at 4, 11 and 18 inches high. Larger dogs, coyotes and wolves. Lowest wire at 6 inches above the ground; other wires spaced 6 to 7 inches apart, up to a height of at least 42 inches. Bears. Three wires spaced 10 inches apart, starting at 10 inches above the ground. Since bears have such poor eyesight, use polyrope or polyribbon instead of metal wire or polywire, or tie fluttering plastic or tinfoil strips to the wire. Deer. Build a three-dimensional fence. First, build an outer fence using a single wire 30 to 32 inches high, and an inner fence 3 feet away, with two wires at about 20 and 48 inches in height. Deer are great jumpers but have poor depth perception, and this fence confuses them enough to stop them from jumping.
