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November 23, 2013
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November 23, 2013
The least tern is a small bird, an endangered species that causes some big problems because it likes to nest in hostile environments. Protecting them from predators usually means taking some drastic steps. About 10 years ago, the folks at Vandenberg Air Force base, located on a rugged stretch of the California coast about half way between Los Angeles and San Francisco, wanted to find a better way to protect the bird from marauding coyotes.
Vandenberg Air Force Base is headquarters for the 30th Space Wing and home to the Western Launch and Test Range. The Test Range begins at the coastal boundaries of Vandenberg and extends westward to the Marshall Islands, including sites in Hawaii on Oahu and Molokai.
The 30th Space Wing at Vandenberg Air Force Base, Calif., is responsible for all Department of Defense space and missile launch activities on the West Coast. All U.S. satellites destined for near polar orbit are launched from Vandenberg.The Wing supports West coast launch activities for the Air Force, Department of Defense, National Aeronautics and Space Administration, and various private industry contractors. The wing also supports Force Development and Evaluation of all intercontinental ballistic missiles.
Oh, yeah. It’s also serious about protecting a little 3 ounce bird.Jon Francine, a biologist with SRS Technologies, a high tech engineering firm that does a lot of work for the Department of Defense, said coyotes love to attack these ground nesting birds and feast on their eggs and fledglings. It only takes them a few days to wipe out an entire generation of terns.
Francine polices one of California’s most rugged sections of coast line because the Air Force, facing growing pressure from environmentalists to protect endangered species on its bases, asked SRS Technologies to help solve the problem.
“One solution is to try to shoot the coyotes but you’d have to kill about 70% of them over a five year period to get rid of them,” Francine explained. “A better solution is to find some way to keep them from getting to the nests.”
SRS built a power fence around the nesting site with design help from Gallagher. It’s short, only about a half mile long, ending at the cliffs on the coast. It’s a sturdy 10 wire fence built to withstand particularly harsh conditions. “It’s cold, wet and foggy here most of the time,” said Francine.
“We tried powering the fence with solar powered energizers for years but fog can block the sun for 30 or 40 days sometime. We finally convinced the military to run a line out to the fence so we could have a more reliable, hard-wired source of electricity,” said Francine as he described the difficulties he faced.
The fence has some unique maintenance problems. Several times a year Francine has to wash down the wires to get rid of the salt that collects on them. “Salt gets into the connections, causing a big voltage drop,” he said. Even with that kind of care, corrosion still eats away at the wire and he has to “restring” the fence every two years.
The fence works, stopping coyotes from entering the nesting grounds without the need to take more drastic measures. “Once we put it up, the predator problem was essentially over,” said Francine.
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November 22, 2013
Fencing
Fencing is usually the largest capital expenditure on a sheep farm. In many cases, existing fence can be modified for sheep-raising. Two types of fencing are required on sheep farms: perimeter and interior fencing.
Perimeter fencing is usually installed around the boundary of the property (or grazing area) and is the first line of defense against predators. It is intended to last for a long period of time and should be constructed of high quality materials. Suitable perimeter fences for sheep are multi-strand, high-tensile, electric fences and woven wire fences with electric offset wires and barbed wires at the top and bottom of the fence.
Interior fences (or cross fences) are used to subdivide fields into smaller areas (paddocks) for grazing. Interior fences may be constructed from permanent, semi-permanent, or temporary fencing materials.
While an interior fence does not need to deter predators, it does need to be good enough to keep weaned lambs away from their dams and/or rams away from ewes. Temporary fencing can be used to enclosed areas for temporary grazing (e.g. a corn or wheat field).
Perimeter Fencing
High-tensile, electric
High-tensile electric fences last for a long time, are relatively easy to construct, and cost less than other types of fencing. Whereas cattle can often be controlled with 1 or 2 strands of electric wire, sheep require multiple strands, not so much to keep them in, but to keep potential predators out.
Five, six or seven strands of 12 ½ gauge high-tensile wire is common for sheep fences. The bottom wires of the fence are more closely spaced than the top wires. Wire spacings of approximately 6, 5, 5, 8 and 10 inches are typical. In areas where there is relatively even rainfall and some green vegetation most of the year, it is recommended that all wires be hot.
Ground return wires are recommended where there is low rainfall, stony and dry soil conditions, or where the ground is frequently frozen or snow covered. Switches can be installed so that wires can be turned off if the situation warrants. For example, it is useful to put a switch on the wire closest to the ground, so that it can be turned off if there is too much vegetation on the fence line.
High-tensile fences are made with smooth wire that is pulled to an initial tension of 250 pounds. They require strong corners and end braces to achieve adequate tension. The wire is held on fence posts with staples. These staples are driven at a slight angle off of vertical so the slash cut points steer the staple into different grains of the wood. The staples are not driven tight against the wire, but instead allow freedom for the wire to move during tensioning, temperature changes, or livestock pressure.
Grounding
Poor grounding is the leading cause of electric fence failures. An electric fence must be properly grounded so that the pulse can complete its circuit and give the animal an effective shock. It is important to follow manufacturer's instructions for grounding electric fences. A minimum of three ground rods should be used for each energizer. It is estimated that 80% of electric fences in the U.S. are improperly grounded. A voltmeter is an inexpensive tool that measures the charge the fence delivers and can be used to trouble shoot electric fence problems.
The charger
The charger (or energizer) is the "heart" of the electric fence system. It converts main or battery power into a high voltage pulse or "shock" as felt by the animal when it touches the fence. In the past, electric fence chargers shorted out easily. Today's chargers are low impedance, meaning they are designed to effectively shock though vegetation and other foreign materials touching the fence.
A 4,000 volt charger is usually sufficient for sheep. The number of joules needed depends on the length of the fence, the number of electrified wires and the severity of conditions. A joule is the amount of energy released per pulse. As a general rule, 1 joule will power 6 miles of single fence wire; 4.5 joules is usually adequate for 20 to 50 acres. Lightning strikes can damage energizers. Surge protectors and lightening arrestors are recommended to minimize energizer damage.
High tensile electric fencing requires periodic upkeep. Fence wires should be kept properly tensioned. Weeds and brush should be cleared from the fence line by spraying or mowing.
It is important to note that an electric fence much more of a psychological barrier rather than a physical one. Sheep and lambs must be trained to respect electric fence. Once trained, they will usually respect the fence even if it is off for any reason.
Woven Wire (American Wire, Page Wire)
Woven wire is the traditional type of fencing for sheep. It consists of horizontal lines of smooth wire held apart by vertical wires called "stays." The distance or spacing between horizontal line wires may vary from as close as 1 1/2 inches at the bottom for small animals, to as wide as 9 inches at the top for large animals. In general, the spacing between wires gets wider as the fence gets taller. Stay wires should be spaced 6 inches apart for small animals and 12 inches for large animals.
A four-foot high woven wire fence, with one to two strands of barbed or electric wire along the top of the fence makes an excellent perimeter fence for sheep. A strand of barbed wire along the bottom of the fence will serve as a "rust" wire and extend the life of the fence.
An electric "offset" wire at shoulder height will keep sheep from poking their heads through the fence. Another offset wire, approximately 7 inches up from the ground will help to deter predators that try to go under fences.
High tensile woven wire fences are more expensive but will not sag or stretch as readily as standard woven wire. They are more resistant to rust and are considerably lighter in weight. Less fence posts are needed with high tensile woven wire.
The advantage to woven wire fences is their effectiveness as a visual barrier. Their biggest disadvantage is their cost.
Mesh wire
Mesh wire fences have smaller openings than woven wire fences. Two types of mesh wire are the diamond mesh, which uses two wires twisted together in a diamond formation with 2-inch x 4-inch openings, and the square knot mesh, which has single horizontal lines with the wire spaced 2 to 4 inches apart. Because they are more expensive than woven wire, they tend to be used for confinement fencing, such as corrals and barnyards.
Barbed Wire Fences
Barbed wire fences are generally not recommended for sheep because they may not effectively deter predators and they can cause injury to livestock. Sheep can get their wool snagged in the barbs. Barbed wires should not be charged due to their poor conductivity and safety for the animals.
When barbed wire fences are used they should contain at least 5 to 6 wires, preferably 8 to 10 closely-spaced wires with several twisted vertical stays. The best use of barbed wire is to rejuvenate old fences or enhance woven wire fences. It is common to install 1 or 2 strands of barbed wire along the top of a woven wire fence and/or one wire along the bottom of the fence.
Rail Fencing (wood or vinyl)
Rail fencing will generally not contain sheep or repel predators unless electric wires are placed between the boards or the entire fence is covered with woven or mesh wire. Rail fences are expensive to build and maintain. On the other hand, permanent, wooden fences are often used for corrals and barnyards.
Other Types of Fencing
Fences made from hog wire or chain link, while effective are generally too expensive to enclose large parcels of land. They work well for corrals and barnyards and other high pressure areas.
Rejuvenating Old Fences
Old fences can last many more years by attaching offset brackets and an electrified wire on each side of the old fence. Single off-set wires should be set at two-thirds of the height of the animals to be controlled. The old fence can serve as the ground wire and will work well to complete the circuit and control the sheep.
Fence height
Fences can be built at different heights. Commercial fencing products come in different heights. Most predators climb, go through, or go under fences, as compared to over them.
Fence Posts
There are many types of fence posts. Fence post selection should be based on the specific fencing need. For example, treated wood posts are best for permanent boundary fences, while steel or fiberglass posts are suitable for temporary fences. Wood posts are highly variable in size and shape. Strength of wood posts increases with top diameter. Post strength is especially important for corner and gate posts, which should have a top diameter of at least 8 inches.Brace posts should be 5 inches or more in top diameter. Line posts can be as small as 2 1/2-inches in top diameter, although larger diameter posts make fences stronger and more durable. T-posts and landscape timbers can also be used for line posts.
Steel posts offer a number of advantages. They are lighter in weight, fireproof, extremely durable, and relatively easy to drive. They also ground fence against lightning when in contact with moist soil. Fence posts must be long enough to accommodate fence height, depth of setting, and an additional 6 inches. One of the advantages of high tensile fencing is that it requires less fence posts.
Most fences use a post spacing of 8 ft. whereas the line spacing on high tensile fences varies from 16 to 90 feet. Post spacing needs to be adjusted for topography, livestock pressure, post size, wire tension, and use of poly spacers, battens, or droppers.
Estimated construction costs for fencing (based on 1,320 feet, ¼mile)
Type Total cost Cost per footWoven wire, 1 barbed strand $1,987.09 $1.51Barbed wire, 5 strands $1,613.65 $1.22High tensile, non-electric, 8 strands $1,483.75 $1.12High tensile, electric, 5 strands $927.13 $0.70Electrified polywire, 3 strands $309.69 $0.24Source: Estimated Costs for Livestock Fencing, Iowa State University, updated 2005.
Wire
Wire may be galvanized steel, aluminum, or aluminum clad steel. Several gauges and breaking strengths of wire within the different wire types are available. Steel wire is covered with zinc, commonly called galvanizing, to protect it from rusting. More zinc means more years of service before rusting starts.
High tensile wire typically carries three times as much zinc coating as barbed or woven wire, which accounts for its long expected life. Aluminum wire is lighter, more conductive, and never rusts; however, the breaking strength of aluminum wire is only about one third that of steel wire. A combination of these two materials is also available as aluminum clad hi-tensile steel. This is a hi-tensile steel wire with aluminum coating in place of galvanization. This wire has the high breaking strength of steel wire and the conductivity of aluminum.
12.5 gauge wire is usually the wire of choice for most permanent fences, while lighter gauges can be used for internal subdivision fences, both permanent and temporary.
Insulators
Insulators are a fundamental component of any electric fence. They are made from a non-conductive material, such as porcelain or plastic and form a barrier between the electrified wire and its support material to prevent current leakage to the ground. Plastic insulators are the most common type of insulator used on electric fences. They are cheap and easy to fit.
Porcelain insulators have the best insulation properties, and if good quality, are the strongest. They are the most expensive. Plastic tube insulators are useful for taking a line wire around a post. Off-set insulators are used to attach a wire to a new fence or a non-electric fence. Cut-off switches are used to isolate parts of a fence without the need to turn off the energizer.
Temporary fencing
Different materials can be used to construct temporary electric fences: high-tensile wire, polywire, polytape, and electric netting (or net fence).
High-Tensile
Light weight, high-tensile wire (17 or 19 gauge) is most suitable for semi-permanent fences that will not be moved constantly. Two or three wires is usually sufficient to control sheep and lambs.
Polywire and Polytape
The most common materials used for temporary fencing are polywire and polytape. Both are combinations of metal and plastic filaments. Polywire has the appearance of heavy cord or plastic baler twine. It comes in several colors or combinations of colors. Several grades are available depending upon the number of filaments and gauge of the conductor. Most polywire sold is either 6 or 9 strand.
Polytape similarly comes in several options and should be purchased on the basis of the number of filaments and the quality of the plastic weave. Compare to polywire, tape has the advantage of greater visibility, which leads to quicker animal recognition and training to the fence. Polywire is less expensive and lasts longer. Poly products come in reels with various capacities and with different locking systems. If you plan to move a fence, reels are an absolute necessity for polywire and polytape.
Step-in posts
Plastic step-in posts are the most common line posts used with poly products. They are the easiest to use, especially if the fence will be moved frequently. The pre-molded loops provide plenty of flexibility for wire spacings. The metal re-bar posts are cheaper and last longer than plastic or fiberglass posts. They require insulators to hold the wires and can be difficult to get in the ground when the soil is hard.
Fiberglass posts
Fiberglass posts are best suited to situations where the fence will not be moved frequently. Drive caps are usually used to hammer fiberglass posts into the ground. A spent shotgun shell also works well Wire clips or plastic insulators are used to hold the wire in place. All types of posts can be difficult to install during the winter.
T posts
Metal “t” posts are stronger and last longer than the other temporary posts, but they cost more and require more labor to install and remove.
Electric Netting
Electric netting combines traits of net-wire and electric fencing, providing a formidable mental and physical barrier in a portable format suitable for temporary or semi-permanent fencing of pastures. It is constructed of polywires and plastic twines. It is usually supplied in fixed lengths of 50 or 25 meters with support posts already installed.
Netting is lightweight and easy to install. Compared to other temporary fences, electric netting provides greater protection from predators. However, with electric netting, there is some risk of animal entanglement, especially young lambs and animals with horns.
Comparison of fencing types
Type Pros Cons Best useBarbed wire May already exist on property Safety
Stock control
Predator control In combination with woven wireWoven wire Visual barrier
Predator control Cost
Installation
Entanglement Permanent
Perimeter
Holding areasStock panels Visual barrier
Strength Cost
Installation Corrals
Holding areasMesh wire Visual barrier Cost
Installation Perimeter
Holding areasBoard
Split-rail
Vinyl Physical barrier
Aesthetics Cost
Installation
High maintenance
Stock control
Predator control Estates
Farm entranceHigh tensile,
non-electric Long life
Installation
Cost Predator control Perimeter
Corrals
Holding areasHigh tensile
electric
5 to 7 strands Long life
Installation
Cost
Predator control Maintenance of fencelines Permanent
Perimeter
InteriorPolywire
2 to 3 wires Cost
Installation Short life
Predator control Interior
TemporaryPolytape
2 to 3 strands Cost
Installation Short life
Predator control Interior
TemporaryElectric
2 to 3 wires Cost
Installation Predator control Interior
TemporaryElectric netting Visual barrier
Installation Cost
Entanglement
Short life Interior
Temporary
Small areasChain link May have materials
Visual barrier
Predator proof Cost
Installation Corrals
Holding areas
November 22, 2013
Fencing is the key to pasture management. It allows a livestock producer to rotate pastures and control livestock and predators. Many types of fences are used in Ontario to provide a physical barrier. they include an assortment of cedar rail, stone, page wire, barb wire, suspension, hihg tensile, and board fences.
Livestock farms need at least an exterior or perimeter fence. Interior fences allow a farm to be subdivided and moveable fences add flexibility to grazing management. Electric fencing offers this versatility and is effective and inexpensive.
Electric fencing can replace worn out fences or be used as a new fence. It will support and extend the life of a page wire or rail fence. The high cost and labour involved in putting up and maintaining traditional fences has made electric fencing more attractive. When properly constructed, modern electric fencing is much more dependable than the older style battery-operated units used in the past.
Figure 5-1. One strand high tensile wire supporting a rail fence.

Electric fencing is a psychological, rather than a physical, barrier. The success of electric fencing depends on training your livestock to respect the fence. Try the following:
Untrained, an animal may try to go through the fence. But many hours of time can be saved rounding up livestock and repairing fences if the animals are well trained.
A power source, either hydro or battery operated, is needed to operate the energizer. The energizer sends out a current in a pulse. Wire is used to carry the current along the fence. A ground completes the circuit. When an animal comes in contact with a live wire, it shorts the current to the ground and the animal receives a shock. An electric fence line with no vegetation touching it requires very little power to maintain high voltage levels. Normally the fence will have to handle some plant growth. This is called the fence load. Every plant in contact with a live wire draws a small amount of current to the ground. With miles of wire, this power drain can reduce your fence's effectiveness.
November 22, 2013
November 21, 2013
November 21, 2013
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November 21, 2013
| How to Select, Install Electric Fence Advice from an electric-fencing expert on selecting and installing it for maximum security and safety for your horse. Plus, a maintenance checklist for you.
When you need to build a new fence or replace an existing one, there's a major reason for using electric fence: Properly selected, installed and maintained, it's the most effective way to safely contain your horse. It's also economical and easy to install and maintain. Let's look at the basic components of an electric fence and how to avoid common problems.
Key Electric Fence Components Ignore chargers whose power is rated by miles; look instead for one rated by joules, a measure of the oomph with which the charger is pulsing its thousands of volts of current through the fence once every second. One joule is a minimum rating for fencing that encloses up to five acres, but I always recommend getting the most powerful charger you can afford. A higher joule rating doesn't mean the fence's jolt--which can't injure horses or other animals--will be harder or more painful, but that it will be more consistent. The difference in cost will be insignificant compared to the value of your horses and your peace of mind; expect to pay $100 to $120 for a good one-joule charger that plugs into an outlet in the barn or elsewhere; six-joule chargers now sell for less than $200, a small premium for peace of mind. (Worried about your electric bill? Fence chargers use negligible amounts of power, whatever their rating.) I recommend solar-powered chargers--about three times as expensive as the plug-in type--only for paddocks where 110-volt power is unavailable; as well as delivering relatively low power for their cost, they're susceptible to failure. It's possible to run insulated cable up to 1/4 mile from a charger to the fence without significant power loss. Install the charger under cover (except for solar-powered chargers, of course), where you can check it easily during each day's routine. Most chargers have a light that flashes with the electric pulse when they're plugged in and functioning. Ground system. This is a series of three 6-foot-long, galvanized-steel rods pounded into the ground 10 feet apart and connected by insulated cable (see below) to the "ground" terminal on the fence charger. (In areas where soil is very dry, more than three rods may be needed.) Assuming that you have a good charger, the ground system is the key to your electric fence's effectiveness. If your horse touches the fence, he feels a jolt only when the brief pulse of electric current that goes through his body and into the ground is picked up by the ground system and returned to the fence charger, completing the circuit. Be sure to use a ground rod clamp to attach the ground wire as tightly as possible to the rod, rather than just wrapping it around. Insulated cable. The cable that carries the electric pulse from the charger to the fence needs to be specifically for electric fence, with insulation rated for up to 20,000 volts (most fence chargers emit from 5000 to 10,000 volts)--the same degree of insulation as on automobile spark plugs. By using cable designed for electric fence, you avoid the electricity leakage that results when you connect the charger to the fence with heavy-duty household electric cable, whose insulation is rated for only 600 volts. When attaching the cable to the fence itself, use a connector clamp rather than just wrapping the cable wire around the fence; cable connected by wrapping comes loose more easily or loses power due to oxidation or corrosion buildup. All fence manufacturers sell a connector clamp designed to work optimally with their product. You'll also need the cable to carry the electric fence current from one side of a gate to the other: Connect all strands of the fence to the cable on the side of the gate nearest the charger. My preference is to then run the cable above the gate via an archway high enough to safely admit horses and paddock-maintenance equipment, but most people prefer to run the cable underground. That's fine as long as the cable is encased in waterproof plastic tubing, plugged at each end with silicone caulking and buried in an 18-inch-deep trench to protect it from damage by hooves and equipment. On the far side of the gate, use connector clamps to attach all strands of the fence to the cable. Cut-off switch(es). Save lots of extra steps by installing a weatherproof knife-type cut-off switch (sold in the electric fence section of farm stores) between the insulated cable and its attachment to the fence, enabling you to turn the fence off without going back to the barn to unplug the charger. I also like to install cut-off switches on both sides of a gate--multiple cut-off switches allow you to isolate sections of the fence for easier trouble-shooting. The fence itself. Visibility is key to an electric fence's effectiveness and safety. Materials such as 1.5- or 2-inch poly tape, braid, rope or coated HT wire make the fence easy for your horse to see and avoid. (Thinner fence materials such as poly wire or 1/2-inch poly tape are suitable for temporary installations or as a "hot wire" to keep horses away from solid fence; uncoated electrified wire--although dangerous when used as a fence material on its own--can also be used to protect solid fence.) Choose a product with a long warranty (for instance, some fence materials have a guaranteed lifetime of 20 years) and follow the manufacturer's recommendations for number and spacing of strands. A good general rule of thumb is four to five strands of fence, 4 to 4.5 feet high, for perimeter fences and three to four strands for interior fences. Space the top two or three strands no more than 12 to 14 inches apart and the lower strands 18 inches apart, with the lowest strand 18 inches from the ground to minimize interference by grass and weeds. Insulators. The type of insulator you need (to hold the fence material on the post that supports it, while preventing the fence from contacting any surface that will cause current to leak) is determined by your choice of electric fence; most manufacturers market insulators specifically suited to their fence products. In general, braid, rope, and coated wire are installed on insulators that allow the fence to slide through. To help prevent chafe and wear on a tape fence, however, insulators need to be the type that clamps and immobilizes the tape (especially important in windy areas), and to be installed vertically on the fence post. Avoid cheap "generic" insulators (often made of brittle plastic), which only last a few years. Testing, Testing... Why It's Important Your first check of your new fence's voltage gives you a baseline so that future checks can alert you to voltage drops that signal problems. Depending on the strength of your charger, it will emit 6000 to 10,000 volts when nothing is connected to it. After you've hooked it to your fence, check the voltage at the furthest point from the charger. Some drop in voltage--1500 to 2000--is normal. A more than 2000-volt drop means either your charger is underpowered for the fence, vegetation or something else is "loading" the fence (touching it, causing voltage to leak away), there's a short-circuit somewhere in the system--or a combination of these. If the base voltage on your newly built fence is 4000 or better and everything's working fine, watch on subsequent checks for an overall voltage drop of 1500 or more. (It's normal for voltage to be 500-1000 lower in the morning when moisture on the fence, posts, and nearby vegetation can cause temporary current leakage.) Such a significant decrease means it's time to check for problems and correct them before your horse discovers the fence no longer packs a punch; in fact, many horses can sense when the fence is or isn't functioning.
Texas-based international fence authority Bob Kingsbery grew up on a family-owned horse-breeding farm; he has written widely on electric fencing and has conducted more than 300 seminars on fence technology and grazing management throughout the world. You can reach him with your electric-fence questions via email at bob@kingsbery.com.
This story originally appeared in the March 2004 issue of Practical Horseman magazine. |
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November 21, 2013
How to Build High Tensile Fence
Building your High Tensile fence
You have already decided what kind of fence you need, now the next step is to determine where you will put it. Be sure of your boundaries, check local laws and regulations pertaining to fencing and locate any potential hazards, both natural and man-made, such as underground utility lines and overhead electric wires. Make sure the fence path is clear of brush and debris. Once you're ready, install all end and corner posts. Next, run out a single guide wire to help assure a straight fence line. This wire will become the bottom wire of the fence and serves as a guide for setting the line post.
Attach the guide wire to both end posts. Use a chain grab wirepuller or an in-line strainer to pull the guide wire taut (about 100 pounds tension). For safety's sake, wear appropriate clothing, heavy leather gloves and eye protection when working with any wire fence and, when driving posts or operating other power equipment, wear hearing protection. If the terrain is hilly, drive the rise and dip post first and staple the guide wire to them before setting the line posts.
Setting the post(s)
Check the chart, which gives suggested post space distances for the type of fence that you are building. In most cases, the use of Kiwi Droppers® will allow you to reduce the cost by increasing the distance between posts.
Posts, small end down, can be mechanically driven with a hydraulic post driver or set using an auger-drilled pilot hole and rammed into place. Posts can be handset but driven posts have about five times the holding strength of handset posts.
If you hand set posts for brace assemblies, set the end post in concrete to keep it from uplifting. Dig the hole with a bell-bottom. Before you place the post, hammer a ring of staples, driven half way in, around the end of the post about 2 inches from the bottom. Place the post and tamp in tightly 8 inches of dry concrete mix. The soil moisture will cause it to set up. Fill the remaining hole with tightly tamped dirt to ground level. For gatepost, add an additional 8 inches of dry concrete mix 18 inches from the top of the hole. Fill the hole with dirt to ground level, tamping tightly.
To prevent overturning a post in soft soil and lifting of a post in a dip, increase the post length and drive deeper; again, check the chart.
Brace assemblies
The ASAE (American Society of Agricultural Engineers) recommends a double brace end assembly for American soil conditions. A double brace is rated at 9,000-lbs. pullover resistance and is more suitable for longer runs and larger livestock. Single brace assemblies can be used for fences of six wires or less. You can increase the holding ability of a brace assembly by increasing the length of the top horizontal post. Recently, a new double brace has become popular, which has the holding properties of a traditional double brace, but affords a cost savings in materials and labor. Drive a 6"x8' end/corner post but then use 4"x7' posts for the rest of the brace. The key is that the brace wire extends in a double wrap from the bottom of the end/corner post to the brace pin on the second brace post. To make the job neater, double figure 8 the brace wire.
November 20, 2013
Safety Considerations
Keep these in mind when you build fence:
Lightning Protection
The long distances of electric fencing now used increase the chance of a lightning strike, so an effective protective system should be used. Lightning often hits the power supply line and goes through the energizer to its earth system blowing its fuse or components. The power (utility) supply earth system should be good enough to attract the lightning rather than have it go through the energizer to its earth.
Finding Shorts
The solid state digital volt meter is important for fault finding and for testing the earth system. It enables accurate reading of the voltage and easy fault finding, because of its extreme accuracy.
Start by going to the first switch (these must be installed along fence lines to save going back to the energizer to switch it off for repairs and for fault finding) and see if the voltage before the switch increases after opening the switch to stop current flow down the farm.
If the voltage increases then go to the next switch. If not check the fence between the switch and the energizer. Neon fence testers are also available, but of no use for finding small leaks or earth system faults. Many are bought and not used for long before buying a digital volt meter.
Electric or power fencing helps make animal farming profitable and sustainable, so the effort required to achieve the above suggestions is well worthwhile. If installation is good and monitoring is done, the labour required is less than with any other system and the profit is greater.
If you have problems, read all the above again. There is a lot to take in, but once you understand it, it becomes second nature.
Take pride in your fencing and enjoy your animals.
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